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Here's my quandary. My buddy has a 2010 ultra classic 110 Screaming Eagle, that he upgraded up to a big bore. He will give me the stock parts removed from his engine so I can upgrade my bike, 2009 Ultra Classic to a 110. Both have similar mileage, approx. 18,000 miles. The local Harley dealership says they will not bolt on, they will need milling and modifications..... BUT they can sell me a 110 kit that WILL just bolt on.
So, my question to all you motorheads and mechanics out there. Am I getting smoke blown up my *** by the HD mechs, or will they just bolt up?
As far as my own research I can't find a difference in the jugs, cams, push rods, etc, etc. between the two years except piston size and cylinder bore and cyl heads.
HELP!!!!
Last edited by Iceman142; Nov 4, 2016 at 08:46 AM.
Reason: More info
With a 110" stock engine, your friends bike is probably a CVO Ultra, not a 'normal' one, which is 96". I'm sure our experts will be along shortly with more details on if his take-off parts will fit!
Two choices, use his CVO take offs and get your cases bored to fit the bigger jugs....or buy the new 110 upgrade kit which uses drop in jugs with thinner spigots (cyl walls).
Kit would be less labour but you have to pay for kit. Take offs are free but more labor. I think they balance each other out cost wise.
My 2 cents, use his take offs, thicker cyl walls and have your crank trued and welded while it's out.
If you get your cases bored, don't forget that you need an additional O-ring gasket on one of the case bolts to prevent oil leak. The case boring encroaches on the channel that the bolt is in and so you need that 0-ring. Personally, I would not bore the cases, you can't undo the boring if something does not go quite right...but to each his own.
The 110 cylnders will not bolt up; cases require boring to accommodate the larger cylinder spigot. Case boring will require removal of the lower unit which once out also begs the question why stop at 110 when you can go to 117 for bit more $$? Why not have the crank trued, balance and welded? Why not have the left side crank bearing converted to the Timken? I would not remove the lower unit unless prepared to make it as bullet proof as possible and go as big as reasonable. BTW, if you do bore the cases, you don't need double O-rings, use a .010" base gasket and trim the cylinders for zero deck height, or just use some Three Bond between the cylinders and case and call it good; have done it many times.
If you want to boost performance without all that work and cost, bore your cylinders to 107", headwork, cams and tune and you will have a nice runner, minimum downtime and won't break the bank......
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