Rear wheel alignment
Mike's coat hanger advice is straight from the manual. Tape measure works too obviously if you're good with tiny numbers.
The old bikes were simple as each side was adjusted independently. But on my '13 bike, what difference does it make if the wheels cockeyed when you measure, if there's no way to adjust it? Or is there a way that I just am not seeing? The only adjustment I see is foreward and backwards. Am I missing something?
Edit: Holy crap!!!! I found the procedure of motor alignment. WTF, that's how you align the tire! Damn.... I like the old way better! Sorry, back to the thread....
Last edited by bikerlaw; Nov 7, 2016 at 02:11 PM.
What follows is best done with the rear wheel out of the bike. Look down the side of the tyre at the rear pulley. When the bead of the tyre, top and bottom, are in line, it is possible to measure how much of the belt track is visible. I've had tyres where I can only see the flange of the belt, almost nothing of the belt track and measured this as 3/16". So I aligned the rear wheel using a 3/16" allen key as a 'feeler' gauge, between tyre and belt.
That was on an older bike, before the snail cams. Fortunately, although I now have those cams and an even wider rear wheel, with similar belt/tyre clearance, I haven't had to mess with the cams, they work just fine.
Last edited by xcbullet; Nov 8, 2016 at 10:15 AM.











