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With all do respect. Why chance burning your paint?? I had the clear rubbed through the paint on my old bike, it was on the rear fender. Body shop wet sanded it for me less than 100 bucks. Just sayin they could fix it pefect. and it wont cost much why chance it....just my 2cts
if it isn't into the color, and if you are careful with it, you can sand and buff the damage. but modern clear coats aren't very thick, so you don't have a lot to work with. if your orbital buffer has a 'fast' setting it could work.
lightly wet sand the worn areas with 600 grit to get a uniform flat look, then very lightly with 800 and 1000,.......
600 grit is much to coarse. Start with 1200 or higher. As the poster stated, there isn't much to work with.
Others would try a clay bar or a buffer and see what it did.... and others would say take it off, shoot more clear and then you have wiggle room to polish, wet sand, whatever....
I have both time and money, but prefer to save money (if I can) rather than time. Going to spend a little time working it by hand using eaglefan's suggestions, and can always fall back to spending money if it doesn't work. If sanding is the final outcome, it'll be done by a pro....not me.
Thanks for the input, gentlemen. Much appreciated.
I have painted and done repair work, skuffs on our bikes can be easy to address. While everyone has an opinion here is mine. Google 3M Trizact, perfect-it system.
I have used their p3000 to sand clear coat on my bikes many times and follow with step 2 and 3 all by hand. Harley Clear is not that hard, no need for machine buffing.
When I drag my boot over the bag lids I use step 2 and 3 and its like new in less than a minute.
There are techniques that need to be followed but its not that hard if you take the time and learn, Google is your friend.
So after having following the steps that eaglefan1 outlined, it's apparent that the stock seat rubbed through the clear coat, BUT......with those steps followed it's only noticeable to someone looking very closely.
In fact, those steps produced such favorable results I did almost the whole bike. What a difference! Front fender to go tomorrow or over the weekend, and I'm going to call it good.
As far as sanding and clear coating the tank....I think that will happen sometime in the future, but for now it's pretty dang good. Goodnuff!
I have painted and done repair work, skuffs on our bikes can be easy to address. While everyone has an opinion here is mine. Google 3M Trizact, perfect-it system.
I have used their p3000 to sand clear coat on my bikes many times and follow with step 2 and 3 all by hand. Harley Clear is not that hard, no need for machine buffing.
When I drag my boot over the bag lids I use step 2 and 3 and its like new in less than a minute.
There are techniques that need to be followed but its not that hard if you take the time and learn, Google is your friend.
Is the Flex buffer/polisher safe to use in the hands of a careful but complete rookie, or would you recommend not using that as well? It looks to be reasonably priced, and might be something I'd use again later (?).
The flex is safe, it is gear driven so it will not bog down. It takes some time to get used to but it is the caddy of the DAs
If you were doing your bike only, I would suggest the Griots Garage machine with a 4 inch backing plate
Go to harbor freight and get the small buffer kit that has the 3 little buffer pads and the shaft that goes intom drill clean the surface and use a fine polishing compound like mcguires and DONT SAND you shouldn't need to. I had one of those HD Tank Bras on my '09 ultra and it wore a dull look into the tank I used what I described above and it came out fine. go slow and use your drill on a slower speed then wax after.
MACH,
Those are not not a rotary per say. Just for reference, think of a 8 inch grinder. They spin in a circle only, can operate at high speeds and can handle large diameter pads. Where as a DA operates in a dual action motion. Hence DA
Flex, Dewalt, Makita, and many others make them..
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