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Has anyone figured out what the different modes control on the V&H Fuel Pak? I ride an 06 Road King with V&H Ovel slipons & duals, with the Screaming Eagle Heavy Breather intake. I have talked to Adam Rogers at V&H Tech several times, and nothing he has told me to do has any affect in the way my scooter runs. It is running too rich at interstate speed (75 or so mhp). I am getting 34-36 mpg, and I have moderatly heavy carbon buildup in the pipes. It is heavier in the right one (front cylinder). I don't understand why V&H wants to make such a big damn secret about what the different modes affect. It would be nice to be able to experiment and fine tune to suit local conditions. If ayone has figured out what mode affects what, I would be greatful to know. If anyone knows what to adjust to lean out at interstate speeds I would be greatful to know that.
Any help would be much appreciated,
Charles
You might want to double check everything and start over and make sure you have the right settings for your configuration and motor size, year and model.
I have the Fuel pack on my07 Road King alongwith the oval mufflers and my bike runs great. I have also installed it on several other guys bikes with no problems what so ever.. All the bikes have run great, they get good milage, no flat spots, plugs look good, no rich or lean spots at any speed,the bikeshave just plain run good.
Again somthing has to be out of adjustment or set wrong or there is somthing else wrong with your bike.
My Fuelpak runs great. I have heard that the duals may be the problem. Everyone with just the slip ons that I know have liked the Fuelpak? My Stealer was thinking this the other day as well when I told them that I was happy with my set-up. does it have to do with the O2 sensor?????
I agree with Bill G. You may want to start from the beginning...1) look at the papers that came with the Fuel Pak and make sure you're looking under the right section for your particularbike, pipes, a/c, etc. 2) Make sure you perform the procedure EXACTLY asper the instructions and make sure you're punching in the right numbers. Also, make sure your throttle positions are as accurately as possible when twisting it to the various throttle positions as you punch in your numbers. Icouldn't quite get mine accurate the first time and had to start all over again and then everything was fine and the bike runs great. If all fails and the bike continues to run the same, that would make me believe I would possibly have a bad Fuel Pak or there's something else going on inside the engine and/or the electronics. I hate that you're havinga problem with getting your Fuel Pak adjusted properly as these are usually very user friendly and easy to install and so many people including myself have had no problems with them. Let us know how it goes and I'm sure everyone on this forum will be glad to help you.
Fuel Paks seem to either work well or don't work well. That's the problem - they are almost impossible to fine tune, if you have a problem. Good luck and let us know how it turns out.
Check V&H website for latest settings. When mine was installed they used settings off of paperwork and it was disappointing. I checked the website found new settings and the difference was daylight and dark.
only issue I had with my V&H FP was it was going from whatever throttle position I was in immediately to 0% when letting off the throttle. with my RH TDs it was losing the pressure and getting pops. Some more violent than others. Not every shift or engine-decel... but often enough it was pissin me off.
I'm running the latest version of the FP as well. I ended up changing mode 23 from 16 to 15 so it wouldn't cut the fuel so violently when backing off the throttle. Ended my popping with my RH TDs.
Not sure how the FP would have to do with the changes in fuel for #1 and #2 cylinders and how you are running one too lean or one 2 rich. Since the FP only ADDS fuel to the equation .... I would tend to think it would add it for both cylinders.
Only thing off the top of my head about running too 'rich' at higher speeds (not sure what gear you are in) but if your RPMs are 'up' perhaps you aren't getting enough air in the intake. Maybe look at getting the K&N filter for intake and see if that happens. I think they are around $40 (from what I've seen posted here) and hear they give better airflow than the SE A/C.
That would be my suggestion is to change out the air-intake filter to see if you can increase the amount of air to mix better with the fuel being added.
only issue I had with my V&H FP was it was going from whatever throttle position I was in immediately to 0% when letting off the throttle. with my RH TDs it was losing the pressure and getting pops. Some more violent than others. Not every shift or engine-decel... but often enough it was pissin me off.
I'm running the latest version of the FP as well. I ended up changing mode 23 from 16 to 15 so it wouldn't cut the fuel so violently when backing off the throttle. Ended my popping with my RH TDs.
Not sure how the FP would have to do with the changes in fuel for #1 and #2 cylinders and how you are running one too lean or one 2 rich. Since the FP only ADDS fuel to the equation .... I would tend to think it would add it for both cylinders.
Only thing off the top of my head about running too 'rich' at higher speeds (not sure what gear you are in) but if your RPMs are 'up' perhaps you aren't getting enough air in the intake. Maybe look at getting the K&N filter for intake and see if that happens. I think they are around $40 (from what I've seen posted here) and hear they give better airflow than the SE A/C.
That would be my suggestion is to change out the air-intake filter to see if you can increase the amount of air to mix better with the fuel being added.
iceman what version fuel pack do you have? i have the same issues, emailed V&H and he told me to do the same thing change mode 23 to 15. i have version 11 fuel pack it doesnt have a mode 23. responded back to V&H last week havent heard back since
Since the FP only ADDS fuel to the equation .... I would tend to think it would add it for both cylinders.
Tuning is an issue - The Fuelpak is not suppossed to be tunable. This is why you can squeak out more HP and TQ with a good tuner and PCIII or SERT. The plus to the Fuelpak is that you do not require a tuner.
Now... for the sake of discussion only, I am not certain if the Fuelpak only ADDS fuel. It can be programmed with negative numbers. I know I needed to use a couple with my setup. Perhaps if it could be tuned, it could solve the problem??
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