the ethanol will eat the inside of the fuel lines and will turn to h2o after 6 mos sitting, only the 10 % ethanol of course. take a little moonshine light it on fire, when the fire burns out you will have water left. my 2 cents

 

all i know is that my bike runs better on 91.

 

Sure, the water will be left if you burn it. In fact, plus more water usually gone in the vapor but when ethanol absorbs a small amount of water in the bottom of a tank, it goes into the engine and then out the exhaust in small amounts of vapor so it does not build up in tank or rust the tank from oxygen in it. Years ago, boats had all kinds of problem with water in the tank. Rarely see it now in this area.

I also do not see the fuel line problems you are talking about. Work on this stuff all the time. Small two strokes have problems with oil mix when it dries in carbs. Do not have a whole lot of examples but this is 20 year old parts that all they have had is 10% ethanol and show no problems . And sure, if you want to use a stabilizer, use it but only proper amount. Dumping in too much or all the time will coke up the cylinder and eat the fuel sock off the fuel pump intake or brass screen of the petcock.

It simple amazes me after cleaning the dried oil-mix in vented carbs off outboards and weed-eaters for the last 20 plus years we have had ethanol and not seeing a hint of corrosion or fuel line damage makes me wonder where you see this and sure not wanting to offend someones who has? Keep in mind that moonshine is cut with 50% water before selling it. And E10 straight fresh from the pump has little if any water to start off in it. You are probably right about 6 months about it absorbing some moisture if Harley is stored 6 months in a non CA bike. So tank should be full to reduce sweating from extreme temperature change inside tank. Even non CA Harleys these days are pretty sealed with spring loaded vents.

 

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Well depends on the area you live in and storage cond which is when ifuel with 10% ethanol can cause problems when not properly treated/ stabilized.

I have been servicing small engine carbs and carbs on classic cars for over 4.5 decades and have seen 1st hand where fuel with 10% ethanol that wasnt properly treated with fuel stabilizer clogged carbs.

And in some worse cases it caused bad corrosion of the metal the carb and fuel lines is made of while also causing rubber fuel lines to degrade actually breaking down the rubber inside the hose into mushy goo.

Thats why many yrs ago i started using marine grade sta-bil in all my small engine equipment along with my motorcycles classic car too along with rec the people i do work for do the same thing too.

With that said i have yet to have ever seen issues cause by using proper amount of fuel stabilier when storing equipment.

But when people dont properly treat fuel (which is pretty common) with fuel stabilizer thats when you can have a problem .

And that happens when people have equipment thats sitting around for a 1,2,3 months in outside cond in a detached garage or shed with more temp & moisture variation with a 1/4-1/2-3/4 tank of fuel that is partially filled with air moisture and then treats the already older partially stale moisture laden fuel and fires up to get treated old fuel into the card and then wonders why they still have carb issues later on.

The proper way to treat fuel for off season storage is to drain, syphon (SP?) or run the motor to get the already 1,2,3, month old fuel out of fuel the fuel tank.

Then fully refill the fuel tank with fresh fuel properly treated with proper amount of fuel stabilizer all the way to the top which ensures there is little to no air moisture allowed to enter the fuel tank to negatively react with the ethanol on the fuel.

Then run the motor 8-10 mins or so ensure the fresh treated fuel is fully run the the carb and then shut the motor down.

Again,when doing that i have yet to hit issue and any cars on small engine or classic cars following that process.

And when dealing with cars that may have a 1/4-1/2 or so of fuel already in there for quite a while thats still good enough the motor starts runs ok that you cant easily get rid of what i have done in those few cases is i topped off the fuel tank with fresh fuel and then added a stronger dose then normal of marine-grade stable to the fuel ans ran the motor to get the treated fuel thru the carb which no issues.

Sta-bil website states in Q&A section that overdosing with marine grade sta-bil does not cause any problems at all which is also my 1st hand experience with doing just that for decades without any issues.

BTW,the reason i always use & rec using marine grade sta-bil vs std fuel stabilizer is because the marine grade is a more robust mixture that is better formulated to better handle just about any poor storage type cond vs std type fuel stabilizer 7 have had great results every time using it when properly administered as i stated above which is key!.

Scott

 

 

Priceless....

 

I don't think compression ratio is the only indicator for what octane is needed. Tuning engines is a complex science. Liquid vs air cooled, head design, etc.

I just sold my beloved 1985 Yamaha VMax. IIRC, it was the hardest accelerating factory-stock street legal vehicle in 1985. It had a CR of 10.5 to one. The manual called for 87 octane. I ran NHRA corrected ETs in the very high 10's bone stock on 87. No pinging.

I love this picture. It's pro drag racer Jay Gleason doing a demo shoot for Yamaha. He turned a 10.31 on a prepped surface, stock tire.

 

When I used 87 octane in my 2004 Fat Boy, the engine would knock during a hot start-up.

 

Many look at the extra cost per fill up and disregard the difference. I buy gas over a lifetime and a dollar per tank full adds up over time. I am with you, why buy more octane than you need?[/QUOTE]

do you smoke? drink beer or liquor? how about your vehicles? are they electric like a tree hugger. my point is you spend extra on that so what's the difference in a buck or two at best for your 5 or 6 gallon tank of gas? it's not even a ripple in the ocean of money if you look at the big picture. I ride to enjoy the road not worry about the cost of gas for it. the calibrstion of the fuel system is why they recommend higher octsne for emissions purposes.

Batman

 

Please run the cheapest, lowest quality pig **** available in your motor. Leave the high-grade petroleum stock to be refined just for me.