swerving on a bagger
http://www.ccso.charlestoncounty.org/Motor%20Movie_Web%20Broadcast.wmv
How many miles do you have riding your glide? I think you will become much more comfortable making quick maneuvers with time in the seat and practice. I have to admit, my Ultra felt like a huge, heavy bike when I first started riding it and now it feels like a fairly small easy to throw around bike. I purposely practice all kinds of things they teach in the Ride Like a Pro Video's when I'm riding.
Do not look at the obsticle you are trying to swerve around!
And as taught in the MSF courses, don't use the brake while swerving.
I have a co-worker who happens to be a Motor Officer Instructor. I asked him about counter-steering and he told me that they do teach it, but only to be used in emergency evasive manuevers.
Countersteering is THE ONLY way to make a bike turn/swerve if the bike is going more than about 5 MPH.
That is the truth.
The Best of Harley-Davidson for Lifelong Riders
1. Proper counter steering technique (body position, staying off the brakes and trusting the bike)
2. Look where you want to go.....NOT at the object you are trying to avoid....you will subconsciously pilot the bike where you are looking....
3. Practice...Practice....in a vacant paved parking lot on the weekends...because you will perform the swerve just as you practiced it if/when a real swerve becomes necessary.
If you have not taken the intermediate or advanced MSF safety courses, I recommend highly both courses...it's the best investment you will make to sharpen your bike handling ability and build your confidence level on that larger bike sitting under your bottomside. You will not be able to control that bike simply by leaning and hoping. You must counter steer at street speeds. At slow speeds in the parking lots, well below the gyroscopic speed threshold, you will steer it like a tricycle. Slow speed handling is more difficult than driving down the road at highway speeds. Consider practicing tight radius, slow speed turns, U-turns, hard 90 degree left and right turns, and work to master clutch management cause each bike is really different depending on clutch cable length, cable slack adjustment, and just where in the clutch lever travel the clutch engages/disengages.
That bigger bike will take longer to stop than your previous ride. You will need to practice panic or emergency braking. 70% of your stopping power is in the front brake. Get in a habit of using the front and the rear brakes together, every time you brake. Practice stopping your new ride as quickly as you can in a vacant parking lot. Don't get over 15 or so mph until you gat a good feel for how much pressure you can place on the rear brake (while applying front brake) and not slide the tire. If the tire slides, keep your foot on the rear brake and let go of the front brake, countersteering to a stop. Rear wheel slide management is much more critical at higher speeds than the 15 mph I recommend during your training exercises. Rear wheel lock at higher speeds can cause a high-side flip of the bike if the rear brake is released after the wheel begins the slide.
Finally, I would recommend any of the fine authors out there that have written several great articles and books concerning subjects such as: counter steering, swerve techniques, risk management, and street savvy. My personal favorite author is David Hough. (last name pronounced "Huff") Mr. Hough has authored three core books: Proficient Motorcycling, More Proficient Motorcycling, and Street Smarts. So, ....Eyes up, look ahead, manage speed, wear your PPE, and enjoy your bike.
Regards






