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I've gotta tear back into the monkey bar install I did last year on my 13 FLHX. I never changed the bushings like I should have, and I was dead wrong that the stock clamp would work just fine. I also can't keep adjustment in the braided clutch cable that comes with Yaffes kit, so I'm switching back to a stock style Barnett cable. Also going to add an easy pull lever to the ramp to make it a little easier on the hands.
My questions lie with the bushings and the cable.
First, While looking at JPCycles for poly bushing kits, I found ones that I like ( http://www.jpcycles.com/product/590-0128 ) but in the reviews, someone mentioned riser bolts hitting the radio. Can anyone shed any light or experience on that?
Next up is the clutch cable. Did a little internet homework and it seems like +6 (68" total?) is what I need. The cable in the kit from Yaffe seemed a little long, Its still on bike so can't really measure it just yet. Maybe its just me. Has anyone ever actually measured theirs? Then next thing is... Dummy me, I didn't really pay attention enough when I removed the stock one. I may have it routed wrong. Does anyone have any pics or anything how it belongs inside the fairing and around the neck? That alone is prolly alot of the tough pull on the cable so I wanna get that straight before I put it back together.
I have 14" bars and my clutch cable is +8 so a +6 for a 12" bar would seem correct. The cable, after it goes through the fairing hole and inside the fairing, will then be routed to the left side of the neck and then to the rear of the top of the engine guard. Then the cable will continue diagonally across the front of the frame, to the right side of the regulator, under the right side engine case then up to the transmission cover. I am using Magnum Shielding cables now and they are top quality. Just use some spray silicone to lube them and they are good to go.
The bushings look like high quality, but I have an aftermarket radio, which is smaller, so I can't help you on the top clamp bolts hitting the radio. Take a look at what clearance you have and if its about 1/2" or so, you should be fine. You are looking for clearance between the forward most top clamp bolts and the bottom of the radio.
Ordered a new cable and related last night. Held off on bushings until I get it apart some and can see whats going on in there. I honestly cant remember how close the radio was at all. I am going be using the yaffe upgraded clamp, so I'm sure they'll be a little closer.
I'm not understanding why the stock one piece clamp isn't holding on the Yaffe bars. I don't run Yaffe bars but the 14's on my bike have never slipped with the stock clamp.
I'm not understanding why the stock one piece clamp isn't holding on the Yaffe bars. I don't run Yaffe bars but the 14's on my bike have never slipped with the stock clamp.
What kind of pullback are on your bars? The yaffe's have a little bit less (wrists straighter, which is my personal preference) which I think contributes to being able to slide them with the leverage thats there and the extra grip ya got. Kind of like putting a pry bar in something straight as opposed to putting it in crooked.
What kind of pullback are on your bars? The yaffe's have a little bit less (wrists straighter, which is my personal preference) which I think contributes to being able to slide them with the leverage thats there and the extra grip ya got. Kind of like putting a pry bar in something straight as opposed to putting it in crooked.
Yessir I know exactly how the Yaffes are. My KST Mayhems are almost identical and I've never slid the bars using the stock clamp which is why I've asked. I'm wondering if the knurling on the bars have list their grip so to speak. They shouldn't move once tightened. I've installed several sets and I've never had one move under normal circumstances.
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12" monkey bars DO OVER =)
