Brake Fluid Change w/ABS
I used the pump a month or two ago, works freaking great!
I bought the "Pittsburgh Brake Bleeder and Vacuum Pump Kit" at Harbor Freight.
I just dont buy the whole bring it to the dealer thing to actuate the ABS module ya da ya da if your changing your fluid every two years.
Im sure it doesnt hurt, once confirmed your brakes are working well after the fluid change to hit the rear brake hard and actuate the ABS.
Last edited by alarmdoug; Jun 21, 2017 at 07:39 AM.
It could be that if not done correctly, it would be better off just leaving the system alone. Especially pumping an old system with the lever. That puts the cup seal into areas that have never been touched and have corrosion in them and it destroys the master cylinder. Especially in dual master car cylinders. In a car, attach a pressure bleeder to the top of the master and push new fluid in. Then it's a simple matter to fire the ABS in a safe area. No so with a bike without some risks.
As far as ABS fluid being completely removed from the ABS module I think is bogus as far as a concern, Im not in any way saying you are wrong that it may be not completely removed.
But that "may be" will also be a "may be" at the dealer and at the hand of any one working on your bike, just no way to know.
WITH THAT SAID, I think its kind of pointless of a concern, as Brake fluid in automobiles will go 100 to 200,000 miles, changing the brake fluid in a bike every 2 years will on its on "dilute" any remaining fluid and any moisture in the remaining fluid will be absorbed by the new fluid therefore drying up whatever is left in the system.
Brake fluid absorbs moisture, assuming not all the fluid is extracted from an ABS module and I am not so sure that is correct, changing out 95% of it every 2 years will without question keep the entire system dry as the desert.
I think I am right but no expert but I will never have the dealer change my brake fluid, I trust myself more to do it then an unknown.
When I worked at the Ford dealer and we had an older ABS equipped car come in that required a brake bleed we took the car or truck into the gravel lot and did exactly that. Reason was the Star II tester (from the 80's) needed for the job was broken and no longer supported by Ford. The new IDS that could do amazing things couldn't bleed an archaic system. So a 1, 2 3 or 4 channel brake bleed on an ABS equipped car wasn't rocket science and a Harley system is not different than a car system. The Harley is a 2 channel system for obvious reasons. And no Im not suggesting you take your bike onto a gravel lot, we know it doesn't take much to activate the bikes abs on a washboard road.
Once again, the issue is HD has an out for very expensive repairs if you cannot prove it's been bled properly.
To your example of the older car, that customer got a receipt from Ford documenting that the bleed was done by them.
If you do it yourself there is no proof!
That is the whole point.
I'm convinced that H-D is well aware of the potential for their ABS unit to fail in an unsafe manner; I'm sure most of us have heard of the people who completely lost their brakes when their ABS unit failed. So this maintenance schedule is Harley's shitty attempt to mitigate that liability while not addressing their poor design that has potential to kill its customers
As far as ABS fluid being completely removed from the ABS module I think is bogus as far as a concern, Im not in any way saying you are wrong that it may be not completely removed.
But that "may be" will also be a "may be" at the dealer and at the hand of any one working on your bike, just no way to know.
WITH THAT SAID, I think its kind of pointless of a concern, as Brake fluid in automobiles will go 100 to 200,000 miles, changing the brake fluid in a bike every 2 years will on its on "dilute" any remaining fluid and any moisture in the remaining fluid will be absorbed by the new fluid therefore drying up whatever is left in the system.
Brake fluid absorbs moisture, assuming not all the fluid is extracted from an ABS module and I am not so sure that is correct, changing out 95% of it every 2 years will without question keep the entire system dry as the desert.
I think I am right but no expert but I will never have the dealer change my brake fluid, I trust myself more to do it then an unknown.
I use mine but I keep it under 5. Mine is hooked to a hose in a mason lid. The hose off the bleeder goes into the same jar and is submerged in oil for my bubbler. Even at around 5 lbs, it snaps the lid down.
Keep in mind, I only do DOT 5 non ABS units for a few people and maintain 6 family cars as a hobby.
After Harleys, warning letter, I would only do my own if I ever have an ABS bike. Do exactly what you did and fire the ABS a few time. DOT 4 is plenty cheap.
A personal question was brought up on why I thought air could enter the system with vacuum. Note that only an o-ring seals the back side.
Also note that both the small holes at the bottom of the master must be open. That small one can get trash in it. And most important, especially if tou have master turned on bars oddly, the cover should be positioned square up and all bubble allowed to come to top of the master from piston area. The master has to be bled like that first before trying to bleed if say you have pulled a caliper. You cannot bleed air down from the top and you will be trying to do just that if the master is tilted at an odd angle and those two holes are not the highest point.
Also, a rebuild on the newer systems includes the bore and piston complete that slides in housing.
Last edited by Jackie Paper; Jun 21, 2017 at 08:44 PM.
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