I filled the forks with the 11oz that the manual stated. I let forks drain/drip for a half an hour after flushing with a couple ounces of new oil. Filled with 4 oz, compressed, and then topped off. Hopefully I can get out this weekend and give them a try, thx for all the input....

 

Txworthog is right on the correct procedure for changing fork oil.Thats why harley did away with fork oil drains on the 2013 and on models.But to remove fork tubes on a fairing mounted touring bike is a big job and expensive if one takes it to a dealer..So for the sake of trying to improve ones ride and do quickly and inexpensively , swapping fork oil isn't all bad.At some point the fork tubes will have to be removed and internals checked,cleaned and or replaced is inevitable.

 

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Just did mine,after draining old fork oil SLOWLY pout in approx half oil in each fork tube and then hand tighten fork caps back onto fork tubes and then pump a few times to get oil down the tubes.

Then remove caps and let sit for a few mins,then install the last half of the fork oil into each tube complete job from there.

But dont try to pour in more then half the fork oil at a time because you will end up with mess.dont ask me how i found that out 1st time i changed the fork on my HD!/LOL!!!

I know you already choose fork but heres what i experienced over past few yrs getting mine dialed in better then when forks still had stock oil thats too thin causing too much fork dive and overall poor handling.

I 1st tried all SE hvt wt fork oil which stopped fork dive issue when braking while also improving handling quite a lot too.

Only slight negative was forks were pretty stiff and you felt every little abnormality in road surface ,worse was the wheel/tire would leave road surface when hitting larger bumps which wasnt good a feeling when that happened while cornering.

So this yr i decided to drain the SE hvy wt fork oil & try a mix of -70-75% SE hvy wt oil & 25-30% type E fork oil which did the trick for me on my bike (09 FLHTCU) .

Handling was still better then with thinner stock fork oil while still reducing the stiffness enough that i dont feel every little thing on the road surface, tire doesnt leave road surface on larger bumps anymore while still being stiff enough to keep fork dive while braking @ a tolerable lvl too.

But again,dont go with stock thin weight replacement fork oil because you can significantly improve overall fork/bike perf & handling when going with thicker fork oil which was my exp with it.

Happy motoring.

Scott

 

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If you wait 25k miles thats not a bad idea,BUT>

If you drain stock fork oil @ 12-15k miles like i did on my HD complete disassembly is way over kill & not neede at all.

I flushed each fork tube out with 1/2 qt auto trans fluid then added new fork oil onm my 09 HD thats still got fork drains.

It's easy & cheap to change fork oil so if i change it every 10-15k miles or every 2yrs (whichever comes 1st) using auto trans fluid flush prior to adding new fork oil doing so will eliminate any need to disassemble forks unless fork seals wear out & or something wears out or greaks mechnically in the forks.

Thats the procedure i have used for fork maint on all the street bikes i have owned & ridden every yr since i got my bike license in 1971.

Usuing the above procedure I have only had to replace fork seals on 1 of the many road bikes i have owned on over the past 46ish yrs riding every yr on the street.

And the bike i had to replace the fork seals on wasnt really due to wear & or not disassembling forks when changing fork oil.

It was the age of them being approx 35yrs old at the time because it was a bike a bought brand new in 1977(KZ1000) that i had to change fork seals in approx 5 yrs ago that being 35+ yrs old had dried out shrinking & cracking then leaking fork oil due to age & nothing else.

BTW,the only thing/part that ever failed on that bike from 1977 to when i sold it couple yrs ago in good cond & running well was the rectifier/volt reg and thats it.

That bike never failed to start & or never left me stranded in 38 yrs i owned it which shows what a well built & engineered machine it truly was.

And i wanst easy on it either,put a 4 into 1 on along with jetting carbs and K&N's on carbs too,was the fastest more reliable bike on the road in its day.

Few yrs before i sold it i put jetting back close to stock with stock exhaust and when riding it back roads doing 55-60mph with the wife on the back it's break 50 mpg,solo in same cond would do 51-51.5mpg on reg fuel & go like heck if need be too!

But i had to sell it because i had a back operation with ongoing issues that can't be corrected and road too stiff to ride anymore due to the ongoing back issues.

Scott

 

I went with the Screeeeeeming Eagle Heavy, 10weight I believe. I was due to change it, didn't really have any problems with the old oil in them . I just replaced the air shocks with some 12'' adjustables and figured now was the time to freshen everything up. Once I get a chance to get a ride in I'll report back in....