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Overdue for a oil change and just wanna confirm task at hand. I've decided on which fork oil to use, so that's done(lol)!! According to my manual, my 2011 FLHR does not have dampeners in the legs, so I am guessing that I don't have to fill legs half way, compress forks a few times and then finish filling before buttoning things up. First time doing this so any tips or comments welcome. Doesn't appear too difficult. Thx, Pat.
Follow your book! Your forks have damper rods, not proper dampers. I personally would remove the drain plugs and, once the bulk of the oil has drained, pump the forks to remove any residual oil, before refitting the plugs. I would also pump the forks after putting in the majority of the new fork oil, before topping off.
Thx for the input so far. My manual states" All models EXCEPT FLHR/C have a damper valve. FLHR/C are a Conventional fork type. Compressing the forks a couple times is not a problem, just wanting to do it right. And yes, I'm gonna have a new set of screws and washer ready.
No damper valve in my 2012 RK. But I buggered up the quad ring on one of the fork caps and in my foolish desire to get it back together that night, put it back in. Now I have oil mist on that fork...
Measure what you take out of each fork,replace with same amount.over filling will create a stiffer ride.I'm not sure on the R.K.forks but on the ultras there is flat rubber seals under the fork caps that must be replaced.
Measure what you take out of each fork,replace with same amount.over filling will create a stiffer ride.I'm not sure on the R.K.forks but on the ultras there is flat rubber seals under the fork caps that must be replaced.
When doing forks, I pull them apart, completely clean out ALL the old residual with spray cleaner. This ensures I'm not introducing old dirt or metal particles into the new oil.
When measuring, I use a graduated beaker in cc/mm and/or a turkey injector. You can get a fork oil fill kit, but they're like $40 or more.
Be sure to get the fluid exactly the same on both forks. If I'm not mistaken, stock oil is 7 weight. Some people upgrade to 10 or 15 wt.
I found this today when researching something else about forks.
Worth the read; good primer. Mentions fork oil weight and also how the CVO fork oil causes problems for some forks. https://www.cvoharley.com/smf/index.php?topic=44716.0
Measure what you take out of each fork,replace with same amount.over filling will create a stiffer ride.I'm not sure on the R.K.forks but on the ultras there is flat rubber seals under the fork caps that must be replaced.
I got a new set of seals for the fork caps and some chrome allens for the drain screws. Now on the hunt for an open end 1 3/8'' wrench.......:
Yes get replacement allen head screws. The oem phillips head screws are hard to get out. I had to clamp down on mine with vise grips. If you can get them out with a screwdriver you will probably round them out anyways. Dont forget the new brass crush washers!
btw there's no guarantee the amount of oil you drain is the correct amount to put back. fill it and measure oil level from the top without a spring according to the instructions in the service manual. that's the only way to be sure they are filled properly. and yes pump them a couple times to get the air out first.
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