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Once you have the belt adjusted to what you are going to go with, try giving it a twist with your fingers, where you would place the tension gauge. You want it rotate to a 45 degree turn. If it doesn't move to 45, you are probably too tight, if it goes more, your belt is on the loose side. Hope this helps.
If I adjust my belt on my 06 king according to the manual using that tension tool the belt seems really tight. No way I can get it to twist 45 degrees with any ease. And I have a squeak I am trying to narrow down and I'm thinking it may be a tight belt.
A lot of people suggest this 45 degree rule. How easy does the belt twist 45 degrees?
(a lot of force/should twist relatively easily etc?).
The factory manual for '15 touring models has different specs for various models also. It's because some have 12" & some have 13" shocks..... the swingarm angle at rest & therefore the belt tension is different. 12" shocks get 1/4-7/16, 13 inchers get 3/8-9/16.
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Forget the 'twist test', that is a distraction - use the tool. The CVO models have different rear wheels, which may be larger in OD than stock bikes, may also have 13" or different rear shocks. Belt tension is influenced by the geometry of the rear swingarm, so a larger wheel, or shorter shock, will alter tension if not corrected. Installing long shocks on a bike with short shocks will alter geometry as well. IMHO go by the figures in your book and ignore the bit about air shocks.
As for belt tension and the umpteen threads around HDF, I have owned Buells for over a decade. They have a fixed wheelbase and no belt adjustment, the belt being like a bow string. So ignore all that other nonsense about slack being good! That will risk wrecking your belt teeth in no time!
Once you have the belt adjusted to what you are going to go with, try giving it a twist with your fingers, where you would place the tension gauge. You want it rotate to a 45 degree turn. If it doesn't move to 45, you are probably too tight, if it goes more, your belt is on the loose side. Hope this helps.
Thanks for the tip.
Originally Posted by ROCKOUT Rocker Products
The factory manual for '15 touring models has different specs for various models also. It's because some have 12" & some have 13" shocks..... the swingarm angle at rest & therefore the belt tension is different. 12" shocks get 1/4-7/16, 13 inchers get 3/8-9/16.
Thanks, this makes sense. I just don't understand the different specs in the two manuals when all 2010 street glides have 12" shocks.
Originally Posted by grbrown
Forget the 'twist test', that is a distraction - use the tool. The CVO models have different rear wheels, which may be larger in OD than stock bikes, may also have 13" or different rear shocks. Belt tension is influenced by the geometry of the rear swingarm, so a larger wheel, or shorter shock, will alter tension if not corrected. Installing long shocks on a bike with short shocks will alter geometry as well. IMHO go by the figures in your book and ignore the bit about air shocks.
If I follow the FLHXSE manual I will adjust it to the loose side. That's what I was thinking I would do. Right now I get just over 1/2 inch of deflection at 10 lbs so I know it needs to be tightened
If I follow the FLHXSE manual I will adjust it to the loose side. That's what I was thinking I would do. Right now I get just over 1/2 inch of deflection at 10 lbs so I know it needs to be tightened
Thanks again to all the replied.
The 'loose' end of the spec is exactly what I do - it's got me through the last 27 years of belt drive riding!
If I adjust my belt on my 06 king according to the manual using that tension tool the belt seems really tight. No way I can get it to twist 45 degrees with any ease. And I have a squeak I am trying to narrow down and I'm thinking it may be a tight belt.
A lot of people suggest this 45 degree rule. How easy does the belt twist 45 degrees?
(a lot of force/should twist relatively easily etc?).
My own experience with my 04 RK.
Proper belt tension with the tool has the belt easily twist with two finger, right up to about the 45 degree twist, then it stops. As in stops quite solidly. I do find this darn helpful out on the road both as a quick check and as a way to set it should I need to (it has happened). One less tool to carry around.
Set with proper tension I get neat belt noises, and perhaps some bearing noises as well. The engine also seems to work a little harder with proper belt tension. Yes, I know the properness of belt tension and the problems with it being loose. I even have a manual from Gates on Gilmer type belts. That said, the bike sure feels and sounds better with the belt a wee bit slack from the oem specs.
Warranty neither implied nor expressed, your mileage may vary. ;-)
buy and use the correct tools. the jim's axle adjustment tool is a great help and allows you to dail it right in. well worth the money. i've had the belt gauge for 25 years and have used nothing else. the twist method may be good in an emergency, but that's it.
As for belt tension and the umpteen threads around HDF, I have owned Buells for over a decade. They have a fixed wheelbase and no belt adjustment, the belt being like a bow string. So ignore all that other nonsense about slack being good! That will risk wrecking your belt teeth in no time!
The Buell is a totally different animal with right hand drive. With the concerns on a touring bike's inner primary bearing and trying to find the balance between the primary tension and belt tension so you're not putting too much pressure one way or the other, I find the reference to the Buell tension system a moot point in this conversation.
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