EFI to carb ignition module
I've got a question concerning what all ignition modules will work for the carb conversion on a 2000 UC. I went with all new parts on my conversion, but it looks like I got the wrong ignition box. Can anyone shed some light on what all carb igniton boxes will work with this conversion.
I'm running the SE 31778-00 ignition module now. I didn't realize that this module was for a high compression engine and has a different ignition curve than what would work for stock compression bikes. This is a note concerning the SE ignition box that I found after the fact:
"This ignition system has retarded timing to allow use of
higher than stock compression. This retarded timing
can result in a loss of power and high exhaust gas
temperatures when used on stock engines."
After getting the bike running, it runs well, except the response is less than stellar. I feel like the ignition curve in this box is keeping this conversion from the full potential.
This is my tune so far:
New CV40 with 48 pilot, 195 main, lighter spring, from CV performance.
Pingel petcock with conversion kit.
Stage one with K&N filter
Rinehart true duals
I know this is the box I would need, 32478-99A. My question is, what all factory boxes from carb bikes will work on my UC?
Thanks for any input.
Would consider an aftermarket box if someone here has a good one to sell.
I'm running the SE 31778-00 ignition module now. I didn't realize that this module was for a high compression engine and has a different ignition curve than what would work for stock compression bikes. This is a note concerning the SE ignition box that I found after the fact:
"This ignition system has retarded timing to allow use of
higher than stock compression. This retarded timing
can result in a loss of power and high exhaust gas
temperatures when used on stock engines."
After getting the bike running, it runs well, except the response is less than stellar. I feel like the ignition curve in this box is keeping this conversion from the full potential.
This is my tune so far:
New CV40 with 48 pilot, 195 main, lighter spring, from CV performance.
Pingel petcock with conversion kit.
Stage one with K&N filter
Rinehart true duals
I know this is the box I would need, 32478-99A. My question is, what all factory boxes from carb bikes will work on my UC?
Thanks for any input.
Would consider an aftermarket box if someone here has a good one to sell.
Last edited by MSFLH; Aug 8, 2017 at 05:09 PM.
Or... you could just buy the Daytona Twin Tech TC88 module and be done with it. You can set it for stock or adjust the curve if you feel like it.
It's what I did when I converted my 00' RK years ago.
http://www.daytona-twintec.com/products_carb.html
It's what I did when I converted my 00' RK years ago.
http://www.daytona-twintec.com/products_carb.html
Or... you could just buy the Daytona Twin Tech TC88 module and be done with it. You can set it for stock or adjust the curve if you feel like it.
It's what I did when I converted my 00' RK years ago.
http://www.daytona-twintec.com/products_carb.html
It's what I did when I converted my 00' RK years ago.
http://www.daytona-twintec.com/products_carb.html
I've got a question concerning what all ignition modules will work for the carb conversion on a 2000 UC. I went with all new parts on my conversion, but it looks like I got the wrong ignition all carb igniton boxes will work with this conversion.
I'm running the SE 31778-00 ignition module now. I didn't realize that this module was for a high compression engine and has a different ignition curve than what would work for stock compression bikes. This is a note concerning the SE ignition box that I found after the fact:
"This ignition system has retarded timing to allow use of
higher than stock compression. This retarded timing
can result in a loss of power and high exhaust gas
temperatures when used on stock engines."
After getting the bike running, it runs well, except the response is less than stellar. I feel like the ignition curve in this box is keeping this conversion from the full potential.
This is my tune so far:
New CV40 with 48 pilot, 195 main, lighter spring, from CV performance.
Pingel petcock with conversion kit.
Stage one with K&N filter
Rinehart true duals
I know this is the box I would need, 32478-99A. My question is, what all factory boxes from carb bikes will work on my UC?
Thanks for any input.
Would consider an aftermarket box if someone here has a good one to sell.
I'm running the SE 31778-00 ignition module now. I didn't realize that this module was for a high compression engine and has a different ignition curve than what would work for stock compression bikes. This is a note concerning the SE ignition box that I found after the fact:
"This ignition system has retarded timing to allow use of
higher than stock compression. This retarded timing
can result in a loss of power and high exhaust gas
temperatures when used on stock engines."
After getting the bike running, it runs well, except the response is less than stellar. I feel like the ignition curve in this box is keeping this conversion from the full potential.
This is my tune so far:
New CV40 with 48 pilot, 195 main, lighter spring, from CV performance.
Pingel petcock with conversion kit.
Stage one with K&N filter
Rinehart true duals
I know this is the box I would need, 32478-99A. My question is, what all factory boxes from carb bikes will work on my UC?
Thanks for any input.
Would consider an aftermarket box if someone here has a good one to sell.
If you don't want an adjustable ignition curve, why not just find a used stock unit. I think you'll need one that's for your earlier model, but don't quote me on that.
Or... you could just buy the Daytona Twin Tech TC88 module and be done with it. You can set it for stock or adjust the curve if you feel like it.
It's what I did when I converted my 00' RK years ago.
http://www.daytona-twintec.com/products_carb.html
It's what I did when I converted my 00' RK years ago.
http://www.daytona-twintec.com/products_carb.html
I have seen a few DTTs on the market lately, but I'm always a day late. Story of my life... hah. Thanks man.
I'd start with 45 and 190 jets and ditch that lighter spring.(It's supposed to increase throttle response, like drilling your slide, but it doesn't, it just creates a flutter at idle).
If you don't want an adjustable ignition curve, why not just find a used stock unit. I think you'll need one that's for your earlier model, but don't quote me on that.
If you don't want an adjustable ignition curve, why not just find a used stock unit. I think you'll need one that's for your earlier model, but don't quote me on that.
45, and 190 is stock jetting, I've tried stock jetting on a TC88 on a Dyna with the stage 1 air filter, and a set of pipes. That bike spit back through the carb constantly, no matter how you set the mixture screw. I finally put stage 1 jetting in it, transformed that bike into a pulling S O B. Idled perfect, no spit backs, and pulled like a freight train. I left the factory slide spring in that bike.
After doing that to the Dyna, I never had a second thought about doing it to the touring bike. I do plan on putting the factory slide spring back in it. Thanks brother.
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If it did, it had vac leaks. Usually it's because the intake manifold gaskets are leaking or not installed correctly. I'm running a TC88 with an AC and pipes, 1 7/8s on the mixture screw, 45, 190, only carb mod is a CVP emulsion tube. I was getting crappy MPG, thought it was the jetting, traced it to leaking intake manifold gaskets. Runs like a dream. No popping or backfiring. Get a little decel pop on hard deceleration, but that's just how you know you've jetted it correctly. It was always there, with the pipes, you just hear it better.
If you can't get it to run correctly with the stock jets, you have a problem somewhere else. I read threads for days on the internet before I found mine. Every expert will tell you the stock jets are good, until you start messing with the motor.
If you can't get it to run correctly with the stock jets, you have a problem somewhere else. I read threads for days on the internet before I found mine. Every expert will tell you the stock jets are good, until you start messing with the motor.
If it did, it had vac leaks. Usually it's because the intake manifold gaskets are leaking or not installed correctly. I'm running a TC88 with an AC and pipes, 1 7/8s on the mixture screw, 45, 190, only carb mod is a CVP emulsion tube. I was getting crappy MPG, thought it was the jetting, traced it to leaking intake manifold gaskets. Runs like a dream. No popping or backfiring. Get a little decel pop on hard deceleration, but that's just how you know you've jetted it correctly. It was always there, with the pipes, you just hear it better.
If you can't get it to run correctly with the stock jets, you have a problem somewhere else. I read threads for days on the internet before I found mine. Every expert will tell you the stock jets are good, until you start messing with the motor.
If you can't get it to run correctly with the stock jets, you have a problem somewhere else. I read threads for days on the internet before I found mine. Every expert will tell you the stock jets are good, until you start messing with the motor.
I'll know more after I switch the ignition box out if I need to go back to the stock jets on the Ultra. No problem, I can still learn more every day. If it ends up being better with stock, I'll know not to fool with jet kits. Laterrrrr.
As I make the ignition loom/harness for this part of my build, is this ECU, the 'A', of 32478-99, able to work via a carb system?
I guess so because your ignition curve is for an 88CI Twin Cam motor...is set for injection and your carb is COPYING your injectors. Its possible to fit this OEM to a motor from Twin cam 88CI.
I can swap things, like the DYNO tech adjustable ECM, same Deutsch connectors, but tuneable 'within the range' for a re-jugged motor...






