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it wont be rusted itll have been put under pressure due to either vibration of incorrect fitting. mine was fractured when the dealer removed the cat for the original owner. and was refitted with the clamp catching on the exhaust nut, this caused the fracture.
Is it on a stock exhaust system? Complete Stock exhaust are always listed for sale cheap. Or maybe someone will give you the heat shield off the old system.
I just had to do this for a friend. He has a 2010 SGS and evidently the factory exhaust on that year was a one year only part. He had all 4 hold downs broken on the collector shield. What I did was take a small 2" grinder and carefully cleaned the rusted areas as best I could leaving the original tabs on the metal as sort of a heat sink. I then drilled off the hold downs from a left over shield I had. I set up my welder so I could basically hit it as a spot weld to hold the new hold downs by turning the heat up a tad and slowing the wire feed slightly. It worked great. I had 2 small blue heat spots on the front showing on the chrome but, considering it had fallen off while he was riding and was 12 years old you couldn't even notice them. Good luck on your project.
drill a small 1/8 hole where the spot weld is, both pieces, tab and shield. go to a hardware store and get a small stainless screw, lock washer and an acorn nut. nobody will notice it.
I did something similar. I drilled the small hole and used a stainless steel pop rivet. It's been holding for years now.
The drilling and small SS screws, and lock nuts likely work. I'd do both on that 1 shield. Having had my bike for 19 years the shields have been off a couple times. My tabs, 1 in the center of the shields near each end. When mine start looking rusty I take my dremel tool with the small ss wire brush flat disk shape and go over the that and any other rusted areas. When I have all the loose cleared and blown off I tape up the outside right to the edge then spray a liberal coat or 2 of Pematex rust destroyer then let that dry a day. Then get some alu. color VHT spray paint, usually 1200 plus degree version. 2 coats. There is a curing processs but with mine it's just not hot enough to burn or flake the paint off that little distance between pipe and shield that keeps it just cool enough and the 4 shields I've done seem to be holding up well, No further rusting yet. Good luck with the reattachment.
Lock nuts don't belong on exhausts. It's akin to a plastic frying pan.
Pop rivets work well.
U are correct, I ment to say lock washers. However my JB Weld Kiwi. is holding up real well on the cylinders/jugs where I added the Feuling LOGO plate designed for the SE 110 and put on my TC88. I did that little DO cause my Harley now has Feuling innerds.
Last edited by dfixit1; Jul 18, 2022 at 01:15 AM.
Reason: extra thought for reply to quote
The right rear lower heat shield assembly on my 2011 Ultra just started rattling. It seems as though the keepers/tabs (for lack of a better word) that the worm drive clamp slides through have rusted out and the clamp isn't holding the heat shield. A new heat shield is over $140. Is there any method one can use to fix this? Keep in mind I do not have any welding equipment.
I was thinking if I could get some tabs, like in the attached picture, that I could use some JB Weld High Heat Epoxy to attach them. Is there a store that sells these tabs?
I had a couple of them broken at the bend. Not right at the heatshield, but at the bend that's out away from the shield. One was broken all the way off, another only broken at one side. Best way to fix it is welding. I have a MIG and have been welding for 40 years so it was quick/easy fix. My advice, find a friend with a MIG that knows how to weld and let them do it. Here are pics of the worst one.
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