Lowering blocks should never, ever be used but few people listen because they are cheap and some other guy down at the bar uses them so they must be good. This place shortens your stock shocks and are done professionally and correctly. They have done 2 sets for me.

http://bitchinbaggers.com/products/drop-shocks/

Lowering springs up front will work but this is what I used and am way happier with them. I shimmed the springs almost half an inch and raised the fluid level up about a little over an inch higher in the forks to prevent the fender from contacting the running lights cross bar.

http://www.arlenness.com/prodcat/low3.asp

 

So whats wrong with lowering blocks?

 

I'm taller but find the same thing to. They put all your weight on your *** bone too making you have to require a more heavily padded saddle.

There are a couple of companies that do mid-controls for FXR models and some for Softails. In theory they should be easily adaptable for FLHs as most of the dimension are the same. It would require machining a hole in the internal primary case and using a different inspection cover but it's doable and would make a big difference for you.

Have a look at Custom Design Studio, BOOSTED BRAD, Big Bear, Vulcan and others. They've all got bits that would help.

Also, have a look at the second generation FXR or FXR-P mid controls, they used a bolt on set up with footplates you could fabricate easily, someone else - can't remember the name - made a similar set up for Softails. I think they adapt Dyna mid-controls to fit.

Adapting Dyna mid-controls to fit would probably be the way to go.

The other thing to consider, if you don't know about them, are air shocks with onboard compressors. If I was short, it would be the way I went instead of a fixed lowering system which will kill you in the corners. There's one that automatically lowers, and then pumps up as you speed up. I've ridden with a lower kit and, frankly, found it so ridiculously easy to grind I removed it.

Just out of interest, H-Ds are really designed for big guys. Why did you go for one rather than a metric cruiser that would fit better?

 

Also mentioned in another thread, if you don't know it, Fat Bagger Inc also do a drop seat conversion that replaces the rear triangle and lowers the seat a lot.

Trouble is, it also moves the rider further backwards too which would create a problem with reaching the bars.

 

they kick the shock back at the bottom, which causes the shock to not move correctly also adding extra pressure to the swing arm. thus causing for a rougher ride and possibly breaking the swing arm. I put them on my ultra classic and they are coming back off. I like the look but not the ride. I had them in the 2 inch drop hole and immediately switched to the 1 inch drop. I may as well have been riding a hard tail at the 2 in drop. try mean city cycles seat mod and see if they can help. I have read a lot of good about them.

 

The easy and cheap way is the rear lowering blocks. Next is getting your seat lowered. Mean City Cycles does a great job of this. Next is lowering shocks, many options. I got the lowering blocks on my 2013 Ultra Limited. Just because it is quick and easy. I will be getting my seat done by MCC and then I can remove the blocks. I can not tell any difference in handling with the lowering blocks beside some minor scrapes when going over speed bumps and the like.

 

I'm not buying that, I have 2- Hondas, a Sportser, a Dyna switchback, and a Streetglide all sitting in my garage and they all have different shock angles, plus when custom builders build bikes they don't seem to worried about the angle of the shock

 

I got the front progressive spring lowering kit installed today. I took my time and a lot of considerations to over come as I progressed. I decided to just go 1" lower in the front instead of 2". Another1/2" lower might be a little better ,but was not sure how to get there without stacking some kind of shim under the lowering springs. I choose 10wt fork oil,just happened to have some from a trike conversion I did . I cut the shim just slightly above the fork tube for the preload on the spring. Took it out for a short ride tonight and am very happy with the ride. This combination seems perfect for me. I have not received the parts for the rear yet ,so that will be the next thing to do. Thanks for all the advice and the links to options to get this done

 

u might not buy it but it is basic physics. u change the angle and u change the way the shock works, the shocks on the eg is designed for 1 angle where the 1 on your Honda is at a different angle. different spring rates, would allow for the different angles. Most custom builders are not trying to get there chopper to ride like an electra glide. My iron horse felt like it was riding on concrete blocks. That said some people can feel the difference and others can't. I for 1 can

 

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