Up shifting
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Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 53
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From: Irvine California
Up shifting
Hello
I have a 2014 Street Glide 103. When I up shift I can feel the gears fighting back. Almost like it’s not synced right. The clutch seems to be disengaging ok while stopped but just seems to be coming up short while up shifting. I change all fluids regularly. Any ideas?
I have a 2014 Street Glide 103. When I up shift I can feel the gears fighting back. Almost like it’s not synced right. The clutch seems to be disengaging ok while stopped but just seems to be coming up short while up shifting. I change all fluids regularly. Any ideas?
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: May 2012
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From: Carlsbad, CA
Sounds like clutch adjustment...but wait....isn't yours a Hydraulic Clutch, that isn't adjustable?
Are you using proper transmission and primary lube as per the owner's manual? And are both filled to the proper level?
Are you using proper transmission and primary lube as per the owner's manual? And are both filled to the proper level?
Grand HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2004
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From:
That would be my question also. I've noticed a difference in what type of Trans Fluid I run, so now I stick to Redline Shockproof or Amsoil Severe Gear.
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Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 53
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From: Irvine California
It is hydraulic and I have double checks the fluid levels. It feels like it’s not disengaging enough while shifting. While stopped the clutch feels like it’s working great. I have to let the clutch out half way before it starts to catch.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2007
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From: anacoco, la
that part is normal. in fact, that's one of the big complaints of the hd hydraulic clutch, people feel like they have to let it too far out before it starts to catch.
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From: Central Fl
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Joined: May 2007
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From: Bear Flag, lower end
That is where I would look for the problem. Always start with the easiest stuff, visual inspection of linkage.
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Road Captain
Joined: Apr 2010
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From: Central Utah
New problem or just recent issues?
Keeping it simple initially is good advice.
So here’s another simple one;
Got new boots?
Which shift method do you use, toe up or heal down when upshifting? On my EG, I prefer toe up, but heal down yields a considerably smoother shift. When using toe up, on occasion I’ll have my boot under the shifter getting ready to pull, but there is enough upward pressure to pop it out of gear as soon as I start to pull the lever in. I guess it’s a brain/hand/lifting the foot to shift timing issue for me (all of which are becoming a challenge for me because according to some...I have no brain).
Keeping it simple initially is good advice.
So here’s another simple one;
Got new boots?
Which shift method do you use, toe up or heal down when upshifting? On my EG, I prefer toe up, but heal down yields a considerably smoother shift. When using toe up, on occasion I’ll have my boot under the shifter getting ready to pull, but there is enough upward pressure to pop it out of gear as soon as I start to pull the lever in. I guess it’s a brain/hand/lifting the foot to shift timing issue for me (all of which are becoming a challenge for me because according to some...I have no brain).
Grand HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2012
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From: Oklahoma
How many miles? Stored inside or outside? How do you wash it, high pressure car wand, garden hose, or some other way?
Around 25,000 miles the ball joints at each end of the shift rod are prone to failure. They might be binding shortly before failure. Replacing the ball joints with Heim joints (spherical rod ends) is a popular upgrade.
Storage and washing, parked outside or washing with high force water, the pivot rod on which the heel and toe shifter arms are mounted can have dry bushings also causing extra force to be needed for a clean shift.
Finally, check the shift arms at both ends of the linkage for tightness on their respective shafts, especially the one on the transmission.. If they have never been tightened, I can almost guaranty there will be some slop on the shaft. Tighten and lube everything and get back with us.
Around 25,000 miles the ball joints at each end of the shift rod are prone to failure. They might be binding shortly before failure. Replacing the ball joints with Heim joints (spherical rod ends) is a popular upgrade.
Storage and washing, parked outside or washing with high force water, the pivot rod on which the heel and toe shifter arms are mounted can have dry bushings also causing extra force to be needed for a clean shift.
Finally, check the shift arms at both ends of the linkage for tightness on their respective shafts, especially the one on the transmission.. If they have never been tightened, I can almost guaranty there will be some slop on the shaft. Tighten and lube everything and get back with us.
