Performance baggers
This thread is awesome. Im looking to start a build on my 19 RGS and am wondering what specific brake upgrades you savages are runnin. Livin in WA state with more curves than straight aways, Im in the camp of making it handle nice in the twisties and stop well before chasing power.
I hear guys throwin out that they have Brembos and Berningers to name a couple and also wonder about Lyndalls. Id like to hear what calipers, rotors (and size rotor) and master upgrades youve found and are happy with.
I hear guys throwin out that they have Brembos and Berningers to name a couple and also wonder about Lyndalls. Id like to hear what calipers, rotors (and size rotor) and master upgrades youve found and are happy with.
Road Warrior
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 1,253
Likes: 482
From: MA
I am not, but have looked into it. You want at least 14" with the +2 (dyna) tubes to even things out.
Road Master
Joined: Mar 2020
Posts: 1,077
Likes: 267
From: New England
I have heard that just by installing quality cartridges in the forks alone (at stock height) you will gain ground clearance just from using the proper spring weight and sag.
So I guess I'm at a crossroads of figuring out if it's worth it to do 14" shocks with a +2" front end versus keeping my 13" rear shocks or possibly going up to 13.5" rear shocks with a good cartridge in the stock height tubes. My only concern is messing up the geometry / rake off the bike with a taller front end....I don't want to lose any "normal" rideability of the bike when I'm not out ripping twisties and just want to cruise a couple of hundred miles at 90mph in the left lane.
Road Warrior
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 1,253
Likes: 482
From: MA
I am currently running 13" Legends REVOs with a completely stock front end and I am still scraping floorboards every single ride.
I have heard that just by installing quality cartridges in the forks alone (at stock height) you will gain ground clearance just from using the proper spring weight and sag.
So I guess I'm at a crossroads of figuring out if it's worth it to do 14" shocks with a +2" front end versus keeping my 13" rear shocks or possibly going up to 13.5" rear shocks with a good cartridge in the stock height tubes. My only concern is messing up the geometry / rake off the bike with a taller front end....I don't want to lose any "normal" rideability of the bike when I'm not out ripping twisties and just want to cruise a couple of hundred miles at 90mph in the left lane.
I have heard that just by installing quality cartridges in the forks alone (at stock height) you will gain ground clearance just from using the proper spring weight and sag.
So I guess I'm at a crossroads of figuring out if it's worth it to do 14" shocks with a +2" front end versus keeping my 13" rear shocks or possibly going up to 13.5" rear shocks with a good cartridge in the stock height tubes. My only concern is messing up the geometry / rake off the bike with a taller front end....I don't want to lose any "normal" rideability of the bike when I'm not out ripping twisties and just want to cruise a couple of hundred miles at 90mph in the left lane.
I don't know how you ride or anything obviously but worth mentioning a lot of scraping can be fixed with correct body positioning. Getting your bum off to the side of the seat instead of pushing the bike down. I can scrape if I want, at a lower speed, but with correct BP I can take that same corner faster and not scrape anything. Lifting the bike will obviously increase ground clearance but learning BP is free and worth a shot first, IMO.
I went back and forth for a while on the 14" and +2" front....ended up not doing it mostly just because I'm short and don't want to be tipping over with my girl on the back lol. My mid controls should scrape less than boards anyway, too.
Anyway, if you keep the increase the same front and rear you wont mess up the geometry. If anything, people go too high in front and dont match the rear....with +2" fronts, 14" rear should be a minimum.
I'm actually going to try 14" rears with stock height front. Should make it turn in and go side to side quicker, hoping it doesnt affect high speed stability but I'll find out.
If you go taller in the front itll make your steering/side to side even slower. Think raked chopper.
Hoffmann is supposed to be coming out with a 1" lift block, should be much cheaper than buying new shocks so you could try that first and see how it feels.
Road Master
Joined: Mar 2020
Posts: 1,077
Likes: 267
From: New England
I ride pretty aggressively, have done harley track days before it was a "thing" (6+ years ago) on a +2" FXDX, have a +2" FXR, etc etc...
I don't know how you ride or anything obviously but worth mentioning a lot of scraping can be fixed with correct body positioning. Getting your bum off to the side of the seat instead of pushing the bike down. I can scrape if I want, at a lower speed, but with correct BP I can take that same corner faster and not scrape anything. Lifting the bike will obviously increase ground clearance but learning BP is free and worth a shot first, IMO.
I went back and forth for a while on the 14" and +2" front....ended up not doing it mostly just because I'm short and don't want to be tipping over with my girl on the back lol. My mid controls should scrape less than boards anyway, too.
Anyway, if you keep the increase the same front and rear you wont mess up the geometry. If anything, people go too high in front and dont match the rear....with +2" fronts, 14" rear should be a minimum.
I'm actually going to try 14" rears with stock height front. Should make it turn in and go side to side quicker, hoping it doesnt affect high speed stability but I'll find out.
If you go taller in the front itll make your steering/side to side even slower. Think raked chopper.
Hoffmann is supposed to be coming out with a 1" lift block, should be much cheaper than buying new shocks so you could try that first and see how it feels.
I don't know how you ride or anything obviously but worth mentioning a lot of scraping can be fixed with correct body positioning. Getting your bum off to the side of the seat instead of pushing the bike down. I can scrape if I want, at a lower speed, but with correct BP I can take that same corner faster and not scrape anything. Lifting the bike will obviously increase ground clearance but learning BP is free and worth a shot first, IMO.
I went back and forth for a while on the 14" and +2" front....ended up not doing it mostly just because I'm short and don't want to be tipping over with my girl on the back lol. My mid controls should scrape less than boards anyway, too.
Anyway, if you keep the increase the same front and rear you wont mess up the geometry. If anything, people go too high in front and dont match the rear....with +2" fronts, 14" rear should be a minimum.
I'm actually going to try 14" rears with stock height front. Should make it turn in and go side to side quicker, hoping it doesnt affect high speed stability but I'll find out.
If you go taller in the front itll make your steering/side to side even slower. Think raked chopper.
Hoffmann is supposed to be coming out with a 1" lift block, should be much cheaper than buying new shocks so you could try that first and see how it feels.
Road Master
Joined: Mar 2020
Posts: 1,077
Likes: 267
From: New England
Factory bagger tubes are 22-7/8" long correct? And Street Bob tubes are 25.5" long? So you are really running a little bit taller than +2"
I saw on Pro 1 Performances website they make a 49mm +2" bagger tube that is exactly +2" it's a total length of 24-7/8"
https://pro-one.com/collections/tour...gold-tin-14-16
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Road Warrior
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 1,253
Likes: 482
From: MA
See this is where it gets confusing for me. I know that 13" shocks and stock front height is excellent for geometry because you put a little bit more weight over the front end. Now, I was under the impression that 14" shocks with a stock height front end was a no-no.
Looks great.
Factory bagger tubes are 22-7/8" long correct? And Street Bob tubes are 25.5" long? So you are really running a little bit taller than +2"
I saw on Pro 1 Performances website they make a 49mm +2" bagger tube that is exactly +2" it's a total length of 24-7/8"
https://pro-one.com/collections/tour...gold-tin-14-16
Factory bagger tubes are 22-7/8" long correct? And Street Bob tubes are 25.5" long? So you are really running a little bit taller than +2"
I saw on Pro 1 Performances website they make a 49mm +2" bagger tube that is exactly +2" it's a total length of 24-7/8"
https://pro-one.com/collections/tour...gold-tin-14-16
You can always just slide the tubes up in the tree a little bit to make up the difference.
Road Master
Joined: Mar 2020
Posts: 1,077
Likes: 267
From: New England
Not many people have done it but Ive talked to one or two who have with only good things to say. I think Im going to try it once those lift blocks come out since I just did my front end (racetech springs/valves) and 13" ohlins....If I wasn't 5'7" I'd probably just do +2" front and rear but I gotta be careful with my short legs lol.
Yeah the dyna tubes are a little over 2"....thats why I don't think its truly balanced and a little nose-high....but 99% of street riders would never notice that so its honestly not a big deal.
You can always just slide the tubes up in the tree a little bit to make up the difference.
Yeah the dyna tubes are a little over 2"....thats why I don't think its truly balanced and a little nose-high....but 99% of street riders would never notice that so its honestly not a big deal.
You can always just slide the tubes up in the tree a little bit to make up the difference.
I'm 5'10, no issues with my 13" shocks now and a stock front end.