i have an '05 FLHTCUI. Lately the battery has been acting up and when i try to start it sometimes i get the click, click, click. i charge the battery overnight and then it starts the next day. Took the battery (AGM) to O'Reilly's and they said it was good. When the bike does run, i've noticed that the volt meter fluctuates between 10 and 14 amps constantly. The bike has a newish stator so i don't think that's the prob because i'd get an idiot light on the dash for that. Could this be the voltage regulator? Oh, bike has 80,000 miles on it. Thanks in advance for any advice. =)

 

Yes, it very well COULD BE.

 

It COULD be a lot of things.
In the electrical section of this forum there is a sticky on how to completely check the charging system. Or use YouTube.

 

Thanks Gents. i'll go check out the electrical section of this forum. i think Fix My Hog also recently sent out an electrical system check video. i'll go watch those. Thanks again!
scooter

 

A few other suggestions. Dismantle and clean both ends of the two main battery cables, also the ground strap under the transmission. Dirt and/or corrosion can significantly increase resistance. Also bear in mind that if you are watching the voltmeter on your bike, the wiring to it may be faulty! Check with a multimeter, to see how they compare.

 

[QUOTE=scooter60;16863302]i have an '05 FLHTCUI. Lately the battery has been acting up and when i try to start it sometimes i get the click, click, click. i charge the battery overnight and then it starts the next day. Took the battery (AGM) to O'Reilly's and they said it was good. When the bike does run, i've noticed that the volt meter fluctuates between 10 and 14 amps constantly. The bike has a newish stator so i don't think that's the prob because i'd get an idiot light on the dash for that. Could this be the voltage regulator? Oh, bike has 80,000 miles on it. Thanks in advance for any advice. =)[/QU

I would have replaced a voltage regulator when you replaced the stator. Many times one of these components can have a negative effect on the other. I certainly would have done both on a bike with 80,000 miles.
Your volt meter reads voltage and not amperage. A fluctuation between 10 and 14 volts certainly needs to be corrected. When my bike had this same symptom it proved to be a voltage regulator. Your bike doesn't have an indicator light for just the stator. If the battery light comes on it's because the charge voltage is low like your gauge is showing you.

Here is some test information. I don't recall who posted it as it's been awhile since I saved it. Hopefully it helps.

Diagnosing Alternator Charging System Problems
Over the years Harley Davidson has used many different alternator systems. They are usually designated by amperage out put such as a 22- amp or a 32-amp system. Until recently the easiest way to tell the systems apart is by looking at the plugs that connect the stator to the regulator. Since many of these systems can be interchanged sometimes people use a different system when replacing them. If you are only replacing one or two of the components it is important to look at the plug to determine which system is actually in the bike. If in doubt change the stator, rotor and regulator as a set. To figure out which system you have you can go to www.cycleelectricinc.com and go to either the Rectifying regulator page or the stator page. If you scroll down you will find pictures of the different plug types.
There are many different ways to test the alternator system. At the factory we have custom made testing equipment to test each component separately. Without this special equipment it is difficult to test a stator, rotor or regulator on the bench. I have two simple tests to check out the stator and rotor combination on the bike. If the stator and rotor test out good the regulator can be tested. The best way to test a regulator is to hook it up to a known working stator and rotor combination. The motor needs to be running to perform these tests so you need to do them before disassembly.
Stators are very simple and their problems fall into two categories: shorts and opens.
A short circuit occurs when one of the wires in the windings or the lead wire make an electrical connection some place they should not. Shorts can be from winding to winding or from winding to ground. An open circuit occurs if a wire breaks.
Winding to winding shorts or opens will cause low stator voltage.
Rotor problems are relatively rare on stock motors. Motors with performance modification that tend to run at a higher RPM range see more rotor problems. These problems can include a striped spline, broken magnets and even a broken rotor shell. All these problems will result in low stator voltage
Testing AC stator voltage

The object of this test is to see if the stator can produce proper AC voltage per 1000 RPM. For example a 32-amp stator should put out 18 volts AC (VAC) per each 1000-RPM. At 2000 it should be 36 VAC (18x2). At 3000 RPM it should be 54 VAC (18 X 3).
Each system has a certain voltage it should produce per 1000 RPM.
The following is a list of the most common systems.
22 amp single phase = 24 VAC @ 1000 rpm
32 amp single phase = 18 VAC @ 1000 rpm
38 amp single phase = 18 VAC @ 1000 rpm
48 amp single phase = 24 VAC @ 1000 rpm
36 amp three phase = 16 VAC @ 1000 rpm
50 amp three phase 18 VAC @ 1000 rpm
Set your meter to read AC volts. Unplug the stator from the regulator. Start the motor. On a single-phase system, connect one lead from the meter to each pin on the stator plug. Hold the motor at a steady RPM and read the tachometer and the voltmeter.
On a three-phase system there are three separate windings hooked end to end. You need to test the voltage on each set of windings. The plug has three pins. First take a voltage reading between pin one and pin two. Then pin one and pin three. And finally pin two and pin three. This will test all three windings. All three should read the same voltage at the same RPM.
A stator that is shorted to ground may still produce full AC voltage from pin to pin. The problem with this is the rectifier changes the AC current to DC current and then uses the ground as one leg of the DC. When the stator shorts to ground the AC and DC get mixed together.
Testing for shorts to ground
The best way to test for shorts to ground is with a 12-volt test light. Sometimes an ohms meter will not pick up a short to ground. The light test is better.
Using a standard automotive test light, connect the ground clip to a good ground. Test the light by touching the probe to something positive such as the positive battery terminal. The light should light indicating you have a good ground. Now you are ready to start the test.
Unplug the regulator from the stator and start the motor. Probe each stator pin with the test light one at a time. If the bulb lights when connected between any of the stator plug pins and ground the stator is shorted and needs to be replaced.
If you get proper AC voltage and the stator is not grounded (no light) the stator and rotor are good. At this point you can assume the problem is either a bad connection between the regulator and the battery or the regulator is bad.

 

Stator. I did 4 in my 05

 

Online you'll also find how to check the voltage regulator. You'll need a meter such as a Fluke that has a diode setting.
If it is a voltage regulator, look for a "Cycle Electric" unit. They are good quality, made in the U.S. and much less expensive than the foreign made Harley model.