Hi,
I'm new to the forum, tired of looking at old posts and figured it's time to step outside my comfort zone and join the party.
I have a pan, shovel, evo and a twin cam. The bike I'm having issues with now is my son's 2000 road king. It's fuel infected, I have the service manual and I've been trying to get the cold idle adjusted. I've gone thru the recommended procedure in the book but with the cold idle screw backed out all the way the idle only goes down to 2100 rpm. What sensor should I be focusing my attention to? This bike required holding the throttle cracked open at just the right sweet spot to get it started since he bought it and it's idled much slower than my road king does also. Shouldn't have to touch the throttle to start a fuel infected bike but I haven't had this issue with my road king yet to know just where to lay the blame. After adjusting the warm idle it doesn't stall when coming up to a red light anymore but starting cold in the mornings is a bear.
Thanks for any help from the membership.

 

Welcome to the Forum lots of great info here enjoy from Wellington Florida. Ride a lot Ride Safe. Is it good fuel filters first keep posting give us a better description i am sure there are members who have been threw this hope can offer you some suggestions.

 

I would try cleaning the hole in the front of the throttle body. If I remember correctly put a rag in the opening to the butterflies, preventing the carb cleaner from getting in the venturi area. You will see a small hole in the front opening cleanit out well with carb cleaner. let it sit for a few letting the cleaner evaporate then try starting it.There are threads on here with pictures if u do a little searching. This forum is where I found it, and most of my good information.

 

I don't know if it applies to 2000 models, but on later models if you shut the bike down with the RPM's up off idle, that can/will set the idle higher from that point on and requires a reset to fix it.

See post #4 here:
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/touri...-idle-rpm.html

 

Svarnster and milesoftexas, I'll try both of those suggestions when I get home tonight. The link to the previous post looked promising. Thanks.
The fuel filters are new and the fuel pump is also new, good fuel pressure as well.

 

Does the bike have any king of Tuner on it? If yes then that could be it.

 

No, it only has the stock ignition. The bike only has 38k miles on it also, it looks like it was garage kept tho and hasn't been butchered.

So I just got home and tried to start the bike, the outside temperature is 65 degrees. I had to twist the throttle a bit to get it started but once it did it idles fine. I disconnected the negative terminal on the battery and will let it sit for 5 minutes so that the computer will reset the idle speed memory. I read something about that in another post. I haven't taken it for a test ride yet to get it up to operating temperature. To be continued....

 

did it fix it

 

it's not 100%. I had the air cleaner back plate off while the engine was cold. I was expecting to see the idle speed control actuator move when I turned on the ignition but it didn't. I cycled the ignition switch 4 times and then the isca moved, when I hit the starter it fired right up and idled okay. It back fired and threw 3 codes, one each for front and rear fuel injectors and one for crank position sensor and cam position sensor timing. I'm starting to think there's a few different issues going on simultaneously. I figure I'll change out the crank position sensor and see what difference (if any) that makes and then continue with the induction module idle/ starting issue if there's no improvement. This would be so much easier with a break out box but I don't want to sell my eye teeth and first born to get one.

 

Intake leak spray some wd around intake flange where it goes inside of head . If it idles up you have a leak. These leaks will cause it to do the things you just stated. Also those rubber gaskets dry up.