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Think I might have bent a valve. To keep it short I turned the crank with wrench which met resistance and in my dumbness I turned past it. This was done while adjusting pushrods during a Cam Change.
If I bent the valve what does the repair look like and how much will it cost?
How much resistance? When adjusting valves all the pushrods should be loose and adjust one at a time so you don't have that happen.
I think you would have to have been met with quite a bit of resistance if you were hitting a valve and i think it would be hard to turn with a wrench.
Its another thing if you were bumping it over with the starter and had a valve too tight.
Did you not let the lifter of the push rod you just adjusted not bleed down before moving anything?
I would think you would damage a pushrod before a valve when turning it by hand.
Did you not let the lifter of the push rod you just adjusted not bleed down before moving anything?
I would think you would damage a pushrod before a valve when turning it by hand.
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I would remove all the pushrods, turn the motor over and check compression. If you have good equal compression then I would check that the pushrods are perfectly straight.
I would remove all the pushrods, turn the motor over and check compression. If you have good equal compression then I would check that the pushrods are perfectly straight.
How are you going to do a compression test without any pushrods installed? If the valves are not functioning (because no pushrods are installed) any compression readings you get are going to be pretty meaningless.
Now a leakdown test on the other hand will certainly indicate whether or not you have a bent valve.
What would the odds be on bending a valve before bending a pushrod? Could the resistance I was getting just be from the valve spring compressing? Hopefully all as well and if not I’m hoping it’s no more than a bent pushrod.
The only rod that was in was the rear intake. This is my first time doing a cam change as well as using adjustable PR’s. I was turning the motor by using a socket wrench on the crank in order to bring the intake lifter down. Had I read through the instructions better I would have known to take the rear piston to TDC in order to get both Lifters on the base circle.
In a dumb moment I forgot the lifter needed to bleed down before turning the motor. And now here I am wondering how bad this might be?
I went with adjustables so I wouldn’t have to take off rocker covers. Now I’m hoping I don’t have to pull off a head?
Leak down test for intake valve is in order I guess. Just blow compressed air through spark plug hole and if it doesn’t come out throttle body I should be good right?
Take out the pushrods and make sure they are straight. If not, get replacements. Sometimes lessens cost money. Put some compressed air on your rear cylinder through the spark plug hole like you were thinking. If it's not blowing out through the intake then I would install the pushrods correctly and do a compression test.
Here's a link to a video showing how to install adjustable pushrods.
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