Broken Exhaust Stud
Cruiser
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 143
Likes: 21
From: SE Ohio
The best way I have found to remove broke off bolts or studs,is to weld a nut to them and turn them out. Other than that drill the center and try easy out,don't break off the easy out. If this does not work the only thing left is drill and tap. I recently removed 6 broke off exhaust manifold studs out of a v10 in a Ford truck for a friend of mine. Used my tig welder and welded 3/8" nuts to them. Not easy to do in the truck and took me a couple of evenings after work to get them out. Your bike is new and my guess is they should come out without to much effort
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 20,616
Likes: 4,440
From: anacoco, la
this has happened to me. i ended up taking it in to my local indy and he used this tool on it:
if you're going to buy the tool, look around, pricing is all over, this was just an example.
the tool worked awesome. the jig guides the drill straight, and the size is just enough to drill the center of the bolt out. you then reach in and pull the threads out with a needle nose plier.
ended up costing me about the same price as the tool. so i felt like i got a good deal, cause it isn't like i will be planning on breaking off exhaust studs left and right. and he got his tool paid for. win-win i say.
if you're going to buy the tool, look around, pricing is all over, this was just an example.
the tool worked awesome. the jig guides the drill straight, and the size is just enough to drill the center of the bolt out. you then reach in and pull the threads out with a needle nose plier.
ended up costing me about the same price as the tool. so i felt like i got a good deal, cause it isn't like i will be planning on breaking off exhaust studs left and right. and he got his tool paid for. win-win i say.
$.02
"With all due respect", I think that's what you're suppose to say before you tell someone something they don't want to hear.
If you have to ask, then it's best to have the dealer or an Indy do it.
"With all due respect", I think that's what you're suppose to say before you tell someone something they don't want to hear.
If you have to ask, then it's best to have the dealer or an Indy do it.
Club Member
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 1,693
Likes: 462
If I were going to fix this myself, I'd invest in the tool from Jims.
Secondly, get a good torque wrench and follow the torquing instructions in the service manual. If you do, this should never happen again. After getting them torqued to 120 in/lbs per the procedure in the service manual, take it for a ride and get it good and warm. Let it cool then re-torque to 120 in/lbs and you should be good to go.
Sent from my iPad using IB AutoGroup
Secondly, get a good torque wrench and follow the torquing instructions in the service manual. If you do, this should never happen again. After getting them torqued to 120 in/lbs per the procedure in the service manual, take it for a ride and get it good and warm. Let it cool then re-torque to 120 in/lbs and you should be good to go.
Sent from my iPad using IB AutoGroup
Road Captain
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 701
Likes: 72
From: SA TX
If you decide to remove it yourself, be careful of side loading the ez out. If it breaks off you got a mess that needs to be taken to a machine shop....don't ask how I know it was a nightmare 45 years ago...lol
This is not warranty work.
This is not warranty work.
Road Warrior
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 1,274
Likes: 130
From: Now Western TN
this has happened to me. i ended up taking it in to my local indy and he used this tool on it: https://www.amazon.com/JIMS-TRTA0001.../dp/B000WK3IZM
if you're going to buy the tool, look around, pricing is all over, this was just an example..
if you're going to buy the tool, look around, pricing is all over, this was just an example..
Really? why even open up his post then if you saw it already. What a tool. Looks like he got quite a few good ideas out of this thread.
Road Warrior
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 1,937
Likes: 320
From: Vancouver, WA
I'd use an EZ Out. The stud probably isn't that tight either. If you can get some Tri-Flow or other pentrating oil into the threads of the stud, that'll even help you out more but as someone said, watch that side load on the easy out because if it breaks, you've doubled your problem.
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Thread Starter
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Intermediate
Joined: Jan 2018
Posts: 36
Likes: 3
From: Kelowna
I saw that too. Rather messed up I'd say. The guy was asking for help and he gets a comment like that.
I'd use an EZ Out. The stud probably isn't that tight either. If you can get some Tri-Flow or other pentrating oil into the threads of the stud, that'll even help you out more but as someone said, watch that side load on the easy out because if it breaks, you've doubled your problem.
I'd use an EZ Out. The stud probably isn't that tight either. If you can get some Tri-Flow or other pentrating oil into the threads of the stud, that'll even help you out more but as someone said, watch that side load on the easy out because if it breaks, you've doubled your problem.
Thank you sir, its a 50/50 shot at things for sure. I have good quality snap on ez out/left handed drill set. Its just the matter of taking the chance at it, or take it to dealer and let them deal with it and see what comes from it. Hate to see the new bike get butchered! Riding season is in the near future !
Cruiser
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 216
Likes: 20
From: Ontario Canada
Do you have an engraver ?? I like the ones with a fine tip .
Fire it up and apply light pressure off center of the stud , pushing ccw . It works better if you can set the tip into a ridge in the break .
Scott
Fire it up and apply light pressure off center of the stud , pushing ccw . It works better if you can set the tip into a ridge in the break .
Scott
