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Do you have an engraver ?? I like the ones with a fine tip . Fire it up and apply light pressure off center of the stud , pushing ccw . It works better if you can set the tip into a ridge in the break . Scott
That's a very interesting idea, thanks. I'll file that away for future use.
You tend to learn a few things in 16 years of removing bolts that ham handed millwrights have broken off in machinery and parts thereof .
If you are using a punch and hammer , choose a fine point punch and a small hammer . You are better off tapping repeatedly , than mushrooming the broken bolt out into the threads with a bigger hammer .
Scott
If it were me, depending on your abilities I'd take it off if possible and take it to a machinist who knows how to fix it as it should be fixed rather than try to fix it yourself.
I have the RIGID EXTRACTOR KIT, best thing I have used in 30+ years of wrenching. I think the 5/16" studs are too small to use a hammer and punch trick given the location of this issue, welding on modern electronically controlled/CANBUS systems can/will cause phantom electronic issues down the road. So whoever welds on it needs to be highly in tune with not blowing out electronic components.
The stud should come out relatively easy since they are not locktighted in, hopefully you can access the stud without the frame being in the way.
Thanks for all the input everyone, managed to get it out last night. Left handed drill bit, then used an EZ out. Feeling much better about things now! I can finally sleep at night 🤣
As has been suggested already drill a hole in the stud and insert a easy out. Warranty is almost assuredly out of the question, but it wouldn't hurt to give them a call.
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