When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
For the majority of my work on my FL models, I go from the top of the crash bar, or the bottom of the crash bar, near the floor board mount, and pull it into the wheel chock.... both sides. I attach the straps to the lift table, wide enough, that the straps don't touch the front wheel/fender. With a quality wheel chock, this will work for most jobs.
If I'm really gonna be wrenching hard (like compensator), I'll also put a good scissor jack under the bike and lift it to engage both frame points and take a little of the bike's weight. This will help stabilize it
+1 on the scissor jack, and nice choice for a table lft you got there.
This is how I do mine. For normal table use and for rear tire removal I tie down over the crash bar and frame. For front tire removal I tie down from the rear of the frame above the footpegs. I also clamped a 2x4 behind the rear tire to act as a wheel chock, then I also leave the front straps on but loose while raising the front, then just take them to snug to provide extra stability while the bike is on the jack.
I forgot to mention that when I do the front end work I wrap a bungee cord from the crash bar to the rear brake pedal so that the rear brake is applied. Last thing I want is that bike shifting or rolling while up in the air without a wheel on it. Might be over kill but it takes 30 seconds to do.
I have never felt the need to tie mine down on the lift table, just use the wheel chock
Take the extra 2 minutes to save thousands of dollars and tie it down. Ive seen it happen a few times....These are famous last words. Wheel chock isnt enough, ESPECIALLY for a big touring bike...
I have never felt the need to tie mine down on the lift table, just use the wheel chock
That's how most people do it.... the odds are completely in favor of you never having an issue...
But for me, it's not the odds, but the stakes..... if the bike should fall, someone can be hurt, and it will probably cost a bunch to fix...
And of course, the wheel chock will work just fine.... until the one time it doesn't..
I use the two straps on the front , pulling into the wheel chock for 90% of my lift table work.... takes only a minute or so to set up.
But when the big breaker bar comes out, large torque values are used, or when removing heavy parts that will affect balance (wheels)... I take some extra steps...
7 Surprising Harley-Davidson Products that Are Not Motorcycles
Slideshow: The bar-and-shield logo shows up on far more than motorcycles, some of the company's most unexpected products have nothing to do with riding.
Slideshow: From the troubled AMF years to modern misfires, these bikes earned reputations for reliability issues, questionable engineering, or disappointing performance.
Crazy Bunderbike Build Looks Amazing, But Is It Impossible to Ride?
Slideshow: The Swiss custom shop has taken a Harley Softail and stretched it into something so long and low that it looks closer to a rolling sculpture than a conventional motorcycle.
Engraved Rebellion: Inside Bundnerbike's Glam Rock II
Slideshow: A standard cruiser becomes an intricate metal canvas in the hands of a Swiss custom house known for pushing Harley-Davidson platforms far beyond their factory brief.
Slideshow: Harley-Davidson's challenges aren't abstract; they show up in dropping shipments, shrinking dealer traffic, and strategic decisions that aren't yet translating into growth.
