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The thing I don't like about back bleeding brakes is it's possible to push debris in the caliper into the lines and even the master. Something to be very wary of on bikes with ABS.
The thing I don't like about back bleeding brakes is it's possible to push debris in the caliper into the lines and even the master. Something to be very wary of on bikes with ABS.
Although true, you can do the same thing by not cleaning off the crud around the master cylinder gasket doing it the standard way.
Although true, you can do the same thing by not cleaning off the crud around the master cylinder gasket doing it the standard way.
Before doing anything, clean everything...
Absolutely, but I was more referrng to the crud that builds up internally in the calipers.
If you've ever bled s system with old fluid and looked at the sediment that settles out you'll see what I mean.
Absolutely, but I was more referrng to the crud that builds up internally in the calipers.
If you've ever bled s system with old fluid and looked at the sediment that settles out you'll see what I mean.
Oh I getcha. The good thing about reverse bleeding is it's ability to get all of the air out of the system without overworking your master cylinder. Most times air will collect right near the master cylinder output and owners will fight like hell to push that down through 10 foot of line. If getting contaminants in your ABS module is a concern, bleed the system as normal and then wait an hour and then reverse bleed only a few ounces to push out whatever air has collected near the master cylinder.
Note for those still reading: Although we hear this advice often, leaving the brake lever pulled over night doesn't usually help as much as you'd think as when pulled the cylinder valve is closed. Air will collect at the master cylinder output but have no way to escape into the reservoir. Instead, place the bars fully left and lightly bump the lever after sitting all night sometimes helps the bubbles move up into the reservoir. Or just reverse bleed it... easier.
Well I give up I’ve tried very thing no go. Tried vacuume bleeder, sit over night, tried pushing it in, tried very thing and I’ve never had this hard of a time.
I use a piece of 36”-42” clear plastic hose hooked to the bleeder, then point the hose straight up for about 12”, before looping it down in to a container on the ground, that has some brake fluid in it. Make sure bars are full lock left.
Crack the bleeder and slowly squeeze lever, repeat until the 12” section that runs straight up is filled with brake fluid. You will need to snug bleeder between pulls to prevent fluid from getting sucked back in.
Once it is filled with fluid, crack the bleeder and let it sit open for 20 minutes or so. Make sure reservoir is topped off and slowly pull brake lever all the way back, snug bleeder, release lever, open bleeder and repeat.
This usually works for me the best. If you pull lever too fast you get little bubbles that just move around in line but never exit. With the 12” of hose pointed straight up, you don’t have to worry about pulling air back in to the line, as it will be filled with fluid. I’ve spent up to an hour on some calipers. Some are just a PITA.
Patience and not getting frustrated are key. Easy to say when it isn’t you having the problem, I know. Most of us have been there too
hooefully you are someplace where it’s not fully riding season yet. Maybe look in to speed bleeder valves too.
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