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OK, replacing the wheel bearings on some Impeller wheels on my 09. Have the Pit Posse tool and pulling the bearings were no issue. Going to put the new bearing back in and looking at the spacer (axle spacer that goes between the bearings), what is the best way to keep that lined up with the ID of the bearings when putting in the 2nd bearing (in this case I put the ABS bearing in first per manual/instructions). Just sliding the spacer in the wheel it doesn't look like it will stay aligned, it has enough slop in the wheel to float.
should I just push the non-ABS bearing in until it just makes contact but can still be moved around to align it?
OK, replacing the wheel bearings on some Impeller wheels on my 09. Have the Pit Posse tool and pulling the bearings were no issue. Going to put the new bearing back in and looking at the spacer (axle spacer that goes between the bearings), what is the best way to keep that lined up with the ID of the bearings when putting in the 2nd bearing (in this case I put the ABS bearing in first per manual/instructions). Just sliding the spacer in the wheel it doesn't look like it will stay aligned, it has enough slop in the wheel to float.
should I just push the non-ABS bearing in until it just makes contact but can still be moved around to align it?
pop one of the seals off and use a needle greaser and fill inbetween the bearings and replace the seal. they will last a lot longer. not enough in them from factory.
When the second bearing is installed to the correct depth you should be able to still move the spacer with a firm finger pressure. If the spacer is so tight that you cannot move it you have pressed the second bearing too far. If the spacer moves very easily with only a light finger pressure then you haven't pressed the second bearing far enough.
Too deep, or not deep enough, will put unnecessary side loads on the bearing during operation and result in compromised service life. It's really a "feel" thing requiring some judgement by the installer to achieve the correct depth of the second bearing. It's certainly not the most robust or fool-proof design.
This is my opinion only. You won't find any description in the manual other than to press the second bearing until it contacts the spacer (and that is very subjective).
Last edited by 2black1s; Feb 26, 2018 at 05:00 PM.
When the second bearing is installed to the correct depth you should be able to still move the spacer with a firm finger pressure. If the spacer is so tight that you cannot move it you have pressed the second bearing too far. If the spacer moves very easily with only a light finger pressure then you haven't pressed the second bearing far enough.
Too deep, or not deep enough, will put unnecessary side loads on the bearing during operation and result in compromised service life. It's really a "feel" thing requiring some judgement by the installer to achieve the correct depth of the second bearing. It's certainly not the most robust or fool-proof design.
This is my opinion only. You won't find any description in the manual other than to press the second bearing until it contacts the spacer (and that is very subjective).
OK thanks, this was my original plan. Wasn't sure if there was a method I wasn't seeing where I wouldn't have to pull the install tool off (back the nut off the long rod) each time to check the depth.
I know someone on here at one time posted about flipping the plate just before you got the second bearing seated so the outer and inner race would have pressure on it, that way you couldn't get too much side load on that bearing (too far seated).
Manual tells you the order but like you said it only says "until bearing contacts inner spacer"
just did my rear bearing yesterday. first time on this bike 80k miles and old bearing seemed fine, very faint dragging but seen bearing also look fine that I knew were bad. that part with the spacer was a pia, first pass,way too lose, second still loos, third almost snug but had a wee bit of up and down play, fouth pass snug, zero back and forth play and realy pushing a few time could almost get up and down play. called it good. the other thing I notice was everywere you read "start right side","start left side"manuel says right side so did the side were the brake disc goes first. Manuel also said start rear side were the valve stem is? mine is centered valve stem. Think I should be ok but wish people would use plain english
just did my rear bearing yesterday. first time on this bike 80k miles and old bearing seemed fine, very faint dragging but seen bearing also look fine that I knew were bad. that part with the spacer was a pia, first pass,way too lose, second still loos, third almost snug but had a wee bit of up and down play, fouth pass snug, zero back and forth play and realy pushing a few time could almost get up and down play. called it good. the other thing I notice was everywere you read "start right side","start left side"manuel says right side so did the side were the brake disc goes first. Manuel also said start rear side were the valve stem is? mine is centered valve stem. Think I should be ok but wish people would use plain english
Haven't started on the rear yet, I just rebuilt the front forks and installed the Legend Axeo cartridges so the front wheel is first along with a new Avon Cobra. Rear wheel comes next. Did you replace the bearings in the belt sprocket they show in the manual?
Can't find anywhere in the manual they cover those 2 bearings.
Check that......shown just before the wheel bearings in the manual
Last edited by Bowhunter61; Feb 26, 2018 at 06:09 PM.
yes, I added the 08 sprocket to my 07, so its close to your set up. I notice that different years use different shape bearing on the third rail so to speak but that one was easy,just push it in til it seats
If the spacer is lined up on at least one side, pushing the axle through will line up the other side.
Yes you do have to change all 4 rear bearings on the rear wheel of a '09 and up touring bike. For me the two in the cush drive housing were worn worse than the ones in the wheel.
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