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The cams should be exactly the same. The one on the nut end of the shaft does come off. The other side is attached to the shaft and does not come off.
I well understand the learning curve. My Road King is my first Harley.
None the less, if you've got the wrenches, it's just a wheel axle. If the shaft or cam is bothered, while it's best to replace, the adjustment can be made with shims.,
The improper but effective belt tension adjustment is a 45 degree twist. You'll feel it, it's not subtle. It's like the belt hits a stop while twisting. Adjust the axle for this twist.
Wish I could attach the pictures I just took of mine for you, but it's not letting me for some reason.
I think the front wheel will line it self up with the rear wheel when you take your hands off of the handlebars, so if the handle bars are off to the left then I think the front of the rear tire is also off to the left.
Every time I have the rear wheel of off my bike I have to mess with the cam on the right side of the bike to pull the right side of the axle back a little further than turning the axle positions it. My bike has always had a little play between the axle and right side cam. This extra play causes the right side cam to not pull the axle back as far as the welded cam on the left side of the bike.
This being said I have marked the cams where the bike tracks straight and I put them back to the marks and belt deflection bike alignment is good. Even with the marks it is a PIA to get them set where I like them because tightening the right side axle nut causes the right side cam to turn with the axle nut and back off tension on the right side.
I don't know if anyone makes the old style adjusters to retrofit the cam style adjusters, but it sure would make aligning the rear wheel much simpler.
See if your clutch cable is connected to your triple tree, that is what caused mine to pull to the left. The cable pushed the front end to the right making the bike lean and go left. The pull was so bad that I had to put a 30 lb dumbbell in my right saddle bag to make it go straight. After I disconnected the clutch cable from the triple tree, and forgot to put it back on it pulled to the right, till I remembered the 30 lb dumbbell, and tossed it out of the saddle bag, then no more pull either direction. I hope this helps.
I think the front wheel will line it self up with the rear wheel when you take your hands off of the handlebars, so if the handle bars are off to the left then I think the front of the rear tire is also off to the left.
Every time I have the rear wheel of off my bike I have to mess with the cam on the right side of the bike to pull the right side of the axle back a little further than turning the axle positions it. My bike has always had a little play between the axle and right side cam. This extra play causes the right side cam to not pull the axle back as far as the welded cam on the left side of the bike.
This being said I have marked the cams where the bike tracks straight and I put them back to the marks and belt deflection bike alignment is good. Even with the marks it is a PIA to get them set where I like them because tightening the right side axle nut causes the right side cam to turn with the axle nut and back off tension on the right side.
I don't know if anyone makes the old style adjusters to retrofit the cam style adjusters, but it sure would make aligning the rear wheel much simpler.
makes sense to me man... thank you... that is just what i think is happening and i will now play with it a little and see... do i have to drop the exhaust ? looks like i can get in there ok with big wrench.. also.. should i keep bike on the jack while adjusting ? just put bike on ground to loosen nut then lift it ?
really appreciate the input from everyone.. learning alot here
left side of tire about 1/8 to 1/4 inch further back than right
yes that is a sign
jack it up. spin the tire by hand and watch the belt. top and bottom must be not be rubbing as the belt leaves the pulley. per your measurement it should be rubbing on the inside.
yes the two cams must also be in same position. one side has a square hole that slips on the axle bolt. If the adjuster is moved when the axle nut is too tight it will cause a small amount of wear/slop. even a 1/16 of an inch will no longer align properly. You may need new cam, but try adjusting first.
it may be a worn bearing that allows the pulley to follow the belt even though the tire is off. IMHO
My bike pulls to the left as well. Ive had the rear tire off and its adjusted properly. What else could it be? Forks slight twisted in the clamps?
Garrett
check the height of the forks in the top tree. Up until 2014, there were no upper tree fork pinch bolts.2014 and later the height of the fork tube should be measured and equal protruding above the tree. I have found a few that were uneven from the factory.
Woodthumb, you do not have to remove exhaust to adjust rear wheel if you have the correct tools. The service manual shows a torque wrench adapter that allows you to torque the axle nut with the exhaust on the bike. I bought mine from Georges Garage. Just remember to use the tool at a 90 degree angle to the torque wrench as shown is the picture, so as to not multiply the torque by adding additional length to the torque wrench.
I do my adjustment on a jack, so the bike is straight up and raised a little.
If your belt deflection is good, mark the left side cam where it is and concentrate on moving the right side back a little.
I do this by loosening the axle nut a little and use a drift and hammer to rotate cam.
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