Battery Drain
Road Master
Joined: Mar 2018
Posts: 783
Likes: 126
From: East Coast
Possibly the demanded amps are resulting in a drain on the charging circuit while the engine is running. Over time and dependent on the time the accessory is used, the battery would slowly discharge.
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 3,133
Likes: 504
From: Lake County, IL
I’ve experienced the same issue. While I can’t speak to the specific cause, I do as recommended above - always put the bike on a trickle charger when parked. Also, make sure that you don’t have anything plugged into your low voltage outputs.
Wish I had better advice, but, this seems to work for me so far. I personally believe it has something to do with the Rushmore bikes not liking the after market amps...
Wish I had better advice, but, this seems to work for me so far. I personally believe it has something to do with the Rushmore bikes not liking the after market amps...
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Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 9,987
Likes: 5,224
From: Michigan
In my experience, most discharged batteries are due to the battery not being able to hold a full charge and not the bike drawing the battery down.
Before jumping to any conclusions make sure that your battery will hold a charge and if you don't have access to test equipment, charge the battery in your bike and then disconnect the negative cable from your battery and let the bike sit for a day or two then reconnect the negative cable and then turn on your ignition and check the voltmeter to be sure that it's close to 12-13 volts.
My riding partner destroyed two batteries (both while the bike was in storage and connected to a battery tender) only to discover that the fuse in the pigtail harness that connects the tender to the battery was blown!
Touring bikes will pull a small amount of voltage in order to keep the clock going and the security system active but that's less than what a tender puts into the battery.
Before jumping to any conclusions make sure that your battery will hold a charge and if you don't have access to test equipment, charge the battery in your bike and then disconnect the negative cable from your battery and let the bike sit for a day or two then reconnect the negative cable and then turn on your ignition and check the voltmeter to be sure that it's close to 12-13 volts.
My riding partner destroyed two batteries (both while the bike was in storage and connected to a battery tender) only to discover that the fuse in the pigtail harness that connects the tender to the battery was blown!
Touring bikes will pull a small amount of voltage in order to keep the clock going and the security system active but that's less than what a tender puts into the battery.
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