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Find connector 22 and disconnect it. On 22A put one meter lead on the BK/R and the other lead to ground. With the meter set to measure resistance it should show open,no continuity to ground. Push the start button and see if you still have an open or if you have continuity to ground. If that looks good check the same wire on the other side of the connector to ground.
You could just pull your switch housing apart and see if you can find the problem.
the switch is cracked open. There doesn’t seem to be any cracked or melted wires. I’ll open the fairing tomorrow and do some back tracking
Ok, the fuse blows with the starter relay removed, you have divided the circuit, the fault IS a short to ground in the BK/R wire in between the starter switch and the relay.
You can use an ohm meter to check continuity to ground but that still does not tell you the exact location of the short , you can disconnect the connectors in the circuit and further divide the circuit and the section of the circuit that still has continuity to ground is where your short is. In my over 30 years of experience as a master auto technician i have found that one of the best ways to find and fix a wiring problem is to physically
look for it, you just have to know where to look. So what you are looking for is the BK/R wire pinched to ground or rubbed through to ground or shorted to another wire next to it.
In my opinion I think the most likely place is the wiring from the switch behind the switch housing , I have seen the starter wires pinched behind the switch housing.
BTW when checking the BK/R wire for continuity to ground do it with the starter relay removed. I would also look where the starter switch wires enter and exit the handle bars, very possible that the wires are chaffing against and shorting to the handle bars.
Happy Hunting
SteveL
Last edited by SteveUltra; May 10, 2018 at 08:21 AM.
Reason: added info
Even with the relay removed and hitting the start button, the fuse blows.
Seems then that you've got a break in the insulation of the wire somewhere between the switch and the relay. Probably a wear issue that it finally wore through the insulation. Check it carefully and thoroughly, paying particular attention to places it runs along metal, or goes through or over something.
So I tested the continuity at the switch and at the connector. Both were good. Just to check, I plugged back in the connector and tried to start it. It fired up. I assume the wire was twisted, pinched or mashed somewhere. I didn’t see any breaks from in the obvious bend places. I just hope it doesn’t revert when I put back on everything.
Opening the switch or moving the wires at the connector cleared the short. Look for insulation damage, an arc burn on the frame or metallic surface. It's likely to happen again if you don't find it.
Opening the switch or moving the wires at the connector cleared the short. Look for insulation damage, an arc burn on the frame or metallic surface. It's likely to happen again if you don't find it.
I think you jinxed me. It happened again. I’ve been looking for any kind of break or etc. The weird thing is that it started and the fuse didn’t blow. The fuse isn’t blowing now, but it isn’t starting. On the connector, I was getting .02 and .03 when pressing the start switch which I feel is acceptable continuity.
At connector 22B, ( switch on and off), and 22A, (relay removed), you should be checking continuity between the BK/R and battery negative. It should be open, no continuity. Hook your leads up and wiggle the wiring around to see if you can create the path to ground. Check continuity from 22A to the relay socket.
Have you checked your battery voltage? You could turn your kill switch to on and use a jumper from the battery pos on the starter to the starter solenoid to start the bike if the battery is up.
At connector 22B, ( switch on and off), and 22A, (relay removed), you should be checking continuity between the BK/R and battery negative. It should be open, no continuity. Hook your leads up and wiggle the wiring around to see if you can create the path to ground. Check continuity from 22A to the relay socket.
Have you checked your battery voltage? You could turn your kill switch to on and use a jumper from the battery pos on the starter to the starter solenoid to start the bike if the battery is up.
I measured from the blk/r wire at 22a getting a resistance of 0.03. I checked 22a and 22b. Same values. I was check them to a ground point. The battery has 12.54 volts as it sits.
At connector 22B, ( switch on and off), and 22A, (relay removed), you should be checking continuity between the BK/R and battery negative. It should be open, no continuity. Hook your leads up and wiggle the wiring around to see if you can create the path to ground. Check continuity from 22A to the relay socket.
Have you checked your battery voltage? You could turn your kill switch to on and use a jumper from the battery pos on the starter to the starter solenoid to start the bike if the battery is up.
oh and I measured at 4h-86 when hitting the start button for continuity. 0.03 there as well. It doesn’t seem like it but can my anti-theft be blocking it from starting.
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