Cruise scare 😑
Club Member
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 11,175
Likes: 2,483
From: Nor Cal
https://shop.outpostalaska.com/OEMpa...CRUISE_CONTROL
Last edited by multihdrdr; May 14, 2018 at 11:42 PM.
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 2,172
Likes: 377
From: Georgia
He has tried and it does not release the CC therefore his has a problem that he is trying to address.
Road Warrior
Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 1,399
Likes: 307
From: Salem IN
you can still get the cable from HD. I bought spares for my 2002.
This manual is needed in my opinion. This just a quick example you can get it cheaper.
https://www.diyrepairmanuals.com/pro...6a9-qO4ipYOwgZ
This manual is needed in my opinion. This just a quick example you can get it cheaper.
https://www.diyrepairmanuals.com/pro...6a9-qO4ipYOwgZ
HDF Community Team
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 6,190
Likes: 2,419
From: USA
Out of curiosity, when you flip the power switch off and it changes nothing, what shows up on the display? Does it stay lit? Or does the light go out? And, I suppose, what color is it?
If the unit is powered off, then friction really can be the only thing holding it in place.
In my experience with mine, if the cruise control unit is not properly calibrated, it can be quite aggressive in how it responds to resume or to speed loss.
If the unit is powered off, then friction really can be the only thing holding it in place.
In my experience with mine, if the cruise control unit is not properly calibrated, it can be quite aggressive in how it responds to resume or to speed loss.
Thread Starter
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Tourer
Joined: Mar 2018
Posts: 455
Likes: 35
From: SW Ohio
Originally Posted by foxtrapper
Out of curiosity, when you flip the power switch off and it changes nothing, what shows up on the display? Does it stay lit? Or does the light go out? And, I suppose, what color is it?
If the unit is powered off, then friction really can be the only thing holding it in place.
In my experience with mine, if the cruise control unit is not properly calibrated, it can be quite aggressive in how it responds to resume or to speed loss.
If the unit is powered off, then friction really can be the only thing holding it in place.
In my experience with mine, if the cruise control unit is not properly calibrated, it can be quite aggressive in how it responds to resume or to speed loss.
I'll post back here perhaps later today - but thanks for your interest.
Last edited by GittinThere; May 15, 2018 at 11:32 AM.
Thread Starter
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Tourer
Joined: Mar 2018
Posts: 455
Likes: 35
From: SW Ohio
This bike has cables not DBW.
I know it's been a while since this thread was active but in all honesty, I've simply not bothered with using the cruise. Until...Recently I got up the nerve to try it again and again and here's what happens:
1. Turn on CRUISE switch - switch light on (red)
2. SET button does indeed lock in - green 'C' comes on on the tach dial face
3. Touching BRAKE or CLUTCH does cause the green light 'C' to go out BUT DOES NOT ALLOW THROTTLE TO ROLL BACK. I can, and do of course, physically roll it back to essentially disengage cruise.
4. RESUME works BUT it does not stop accelerating until I stop it. Now....
Not sure if something I noticed when changing my grips has anything at all to do with it but here's the deal. When removing the throttle side grip I had a difficult time getting one side of the cable out of its retaining slot/hole. The cable I'm I'm referring to was the forward one - best to my recollection. The rearward cable had plenty slack to allow removal but not the other one. Wondering if that cable was longer(?) it might behave properly by 'releasing'? Thoughts?
I know it's been a while since this thread was active but in all honesty, I've simply not bothered with using the cruise. Until...Recently I got up the nerve to try it again and again and here's what happens:
1. Turn on CRUISE switch - switch light on (red)
2. SET button does indeed lock in - green 'C' comes on on the tach dial face
3. Touching BRAKE or CLUTCH does cause the green light 'C' to go out BUT DOES NOT ALLOW THROTTLE TO ROLL BACK. I can, and do of course, physically roll it back to essentially disengage cruise.
4. RESUME works BUT it does not stop accelerating until I stop it. Now....
Not sure if something I noticed when changing my grips has anything at all to do with it but here's the deal. When removing the throttle side grip I had a difficult time getting one side of the cable out of its retaining slot/hole. The cable I'm I'm referring to was the forward one - best to my recollection. The rearward cable had plenty slack to allow removal but not the other one. Wondering if that cable was longer(?) it might behave properly by 'releasing'? Thoughts?
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 3,074
Likes: 153
From: Snow Mexico
Most likely a stuck cable issue by the sounds of it.
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Thread Starter
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Tourer
Joined: Mar 2018
Posts: 455
Likes: 35
From: SW Ohio
Originally Posted by FatTony
Considering the fact that you can physically roll the throttle off when the cc is stuck i'd say we're here....Most likely a stuck cable issue by the sounds of it.
Last edited by GittinThere; Jul 1, 2018 at 05:19 PM.
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 2,216
Likes: 102
From: Central Illinois
The "stepper cable" can be removed and lubricated, the same thing that should be done on all cables yearly. Once all the cables are properly lubed and it still is doing this, it most likely is the cruise control unit, which I believe are no longer available. For whatever reason H-D decided to discontinue production of the cruise unit for the cabled bikes.
I had the almost same problem with my cruise control on the way to Sturgis in 2012. It would also not shut off with the brakes, it would while the brake was applied but as soon as you let off the cruise would re-engage and start running away. Turning off the main switch did shut it down though. Main problem was the cruise usually did not work but occasionally would engage then try to run away. Was frustrating and dangerous. I bought the H-D electrical manual, which has the diagnostics for the cruise, and went through everything 3 times and nothing showed bad. Eventually I spent the big bucks (near $300 if I remember correctly) and replaced the main unit, but it still did the same thing. Stopped using it and a few months later tried it again and its worked fine since.
One thing you can try is disconnect the battery for about 30 seconds (or maybe remove Maxi fuse for a bit) then reconnect and see what it does. I think the computer stores the malfunction in it's memory so maybe "rebooting" it may help. It sure can't hurt.
I had the almost same problem with my cruise control on the way to Sturgis in 2012. It would also not shut off with the brakes, it would while the brake was applied but as soon as you let off the cruise would re-engage and start running away. Turning off the main switch did shut it down though. Main problem was the cruise usually did not work but occasionally would engage then try to run away. Was frustrating and dangerous. I bought the H-D electrical manual, which has the diagnostics for the cruise, and went through everything 3 times and nothing showed bad. Eventually I spent the big bucks (near $300 if I remember correctly) and replaced the main unit, but it still did the same thing. Stopped using it and a few months later tried it again and its worked fine since.
One thing you can try is disconnect the battery for about 30 seconds (or maybe remove Maxi fuse for a bit) then reconnect and see what it does. I think the computer stores the malfunction in it's memory so maybe "rebooting" it may help. It sure can't hurt.