The Funk of a thousand oil changes
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Cruiser
Joined: Jul 2014
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From: Indiana
The Funk of a thousand oil changes
Did front brakes today. One rotor is warped a little but it's a whole lot better - hardly notice it now. People use these brake pads full of metal flakes - why? I never did and my brakes work great. When those pads left, so did my brake vibration. Changed the brake fluid, of course 
Anyhow, while jacking it up with a scissor jack I borrowed from my Mazda 626 I thought since my head was already under there I might look for the plug that connects the crank position sensor again. Found it this time.
This is a low-voltage computer style plug. To make things even worse, it sits right where the front tire spits all the rain water it can pick up - right there where your chin fairing would be (if you had one). Between the oil running into it from the filter and the sludge the tire kicked up it's a wonder it ran, at all!
The plug was caked in grease with dirt as a thickener. I managed to clean it enough so I could see how to take it apart. The inside was even nastier than the outside - the little "bellows" seal thingy was not up to the circumstances. Not even close.
I cleaned it and then wrapped it in a bunch of layers of black electrical tape. That should work FOR A WHILE. What would really work would be some intelligence in design, on the part of the moco...
Test ride revealed a motor that runs a LOT better. Finally found what was making it idle weird, etc. Of course I will have to ride it five or six times before the computer adjusts and things level out. It always does that.
Anyhow, while jacking it up with a scissor jack I borrowed from my Mazda 626 I thought since my head was already under there I might look for the plug that connects the crank position sensor again. Found it this time.
This is a low-voltage computer style plug. To make things even worse, it sits right where the front tire spits all the rain water it can pick up - right there where your chin fairing would be (if you had one). Between the oil running into it from the filter and the sludge the tire kicked up it's a wonder it ran, at all!
The plug was caked in grease with dirt as a thickener. I managed to clean it enough so I could see how to take it apart. The inside was even nastier than the outside - the little "bellows" seal thingy was not up to the circumstances. Not even close.
I cleaned it and then wrapped it in a bunch of layers of black electrical tape. That should work FOR A WHILE. What would really work would be some intelligence in design, on the part of the moco...
Test ride revealed a motor that runs a LOT better. Finally found what was making it idle weird, etc. Of course I will have to ride it five or six times before the computer adjusts and things level out. It always does that.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Feb 2006
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From: South Florida
[QUOTE=07_Dyna;17406620]Did front brakes today. One rotor is warped a little but it's a whole lot better - hardly notice it now. People use these brake pads full of metal flakes - why? I never did and my brakes work great.(Quote)
You should read up on semi metallic and sintered brake pads.There is a reason why these pads are used. Your choice of organic pads will give you reasonable good braking at slower speeds,but they do not compare with semi metallic or sintered pads for higher speed braking.In other words,they fade fast.They also wear a whole lot faster and of course that is why they are a lot cheaper to purchase.
You should read up on semi metallic and sintered brake pads.There is a reason why these pads are used. Your choice of organic pads will give you reasonable good braking at slower speeds,but they do not compare with semi metallic or sintered pads for higher speed braking.In other words,they fade fast.They also wear a whole lot faster and of course that is why they are a lot cheaper to purchase.
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Cruiser
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 218
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From: Indiana
ou should read up on semi metallic and sintered brake pads.There is a reason why these pads are used. Your choice of organic pads will give you reasonable good braking at slower speeds,but they do not compare with semi metallic or sintered pads for higher speed braking.In other words,they fade fast.They also wear a whole lot faster and of course that is why they are a lot cheaper to purchase.
I'm thinkin... about buying a Lamborghini Contach. Thing is, I only drive to work and back...
Sure, sintered pads are great for what they do. Seems to me the bikes that spec them use harder rotors, as well? I think I remember reading how it should all match up, in the brakes, somewhere.
I had like a SERIOUS brake vibration. Now It's gone. All I did was use the standard kind of pads (carbon fiber) and sand the heck out of the rotors. New rotors were gonna cost me $120!
I've had enough bikes to know those sintered pads tear rotors up, quick. I remember one day me and my St-1300a were soaking wet. Coming around a right turn, nice and slow. I touched the front brake and the damn thing almost locked - made that tire skid... If there had been someone in the oncoming lane you would not be reading this. Took the brakes apart and found a nice new set of those sintered pads. Garbage can, and never another problem.
My Harley seldom sees 80 mph. Just like about 90% of them, I bet .) So I'll take the standard pads.
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Joined: May 2015
Posts: 2,172
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From: Georgia
I would have suggested that after cleaning you filled the bellows part of the plug with dielectric grease and then use plasti dip or liquid electrical tape to coat the outside of the plug. Or alternatively 3M makes a self sealing silicone electrical tape. Between the two, the inner grease and outer tape, the connections should stay good no matter what the front tire throws at it.
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