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I would bet money on the clutch cable crimp right on the outside of the transmission cover. Many of the "cheaper" cables have this crimp design that fails way too often, matter of fact mine has been like this ever since I got it a few years ago. Mine doesn't leak or drip enough oil to warrant replacing it right away, but it's on my list of to-do items soon. It just makes somewhat of a mess of the frame rail under the right floorboard and over time the bottom right side will get covered in greasy blackness that sucks to clean or wash away. Shouldn't harm too much like this, but more of a pain to me. Keep an eye on transmission fluid level with this problem and you should be ok til you can replace the clutch cable with a better and more reliable designed one.
When you can, just upgrade to a braided stainless line from Barnett or one of the others out there and be done with it. Just know it's a pain-staking task to remove the exhaust pipes and headers to be able to remove the transmission side cover in order to replace the clutch cable. No real special tools required, just a decent amount of time for tear down and re-do.
I would bet money on the clutch cable crimp right on the outside of the transmission cover. Many of the "cheaper" cables have this crimp design that fails way too often, matter of fact mine has been like this ever since I got it a few years ago. Mine doesn't leak or drip enough oil to warrant replacing it right away, but it's on my list of to-do items soon. It just makes somewhat of a mess of the frame rail under the right floorboard and over time the bottom right side will get covered in greasy blackness that sucks to clean or wash away. Shouldn't harm too much like this, but more of a pain to me. Keep an eye on transmission fluid level with this problem and you should be ok til you can replace the clutch cable with a better and more reliable designed one.
When you can, just upgrade to a braided stainless line from Barnett or one of the others out there and be done with it. Just know it's a pain-staking task to remove the exhaust pipes and headers to be able to remove the transmission side cover in order to replace the clutch cable. No real special tools required, just a decent amount of time for tear down and re-do.
It most likely is the cable. As a matter of fact it was in over a year ago with the same problem. They changed out my braided cable with another braided cable and here we are again. This is under ESP so Ill be keeping my hands clean and wallet full once again.
It most likely is the cable. As a matter of fact it was in over a year ago with the same problem. They changed out my braided cable with another braided cable and here we are again. This is under ESP so Ill be keeping my hands clean and wallet full once again.
and, from what i understand, if a covered fix on esp fails again, there is no deductible the second (and subsequent) time around. i've never seen any time limits on that, be interesting to see if they charge you the $50 again.
No they already stated there would be no charge for the leak regardless of where it was. When I brought it the first of these three times they got there $50 but only fixed one leak and thought they were done. Had a leak on rear rocker box cover, they got that but missed the one dripping below.
forgive me I'm on the mobile site so I can't see if your bike is listed or not. I have a 14 sg that drops about 3 to 4 drops on the o2 sensor every once is a while. what year is your bike?. I have esp also so taking it in a option just hate having those guys wrench on my bike. but warranty work I'll let them do.
forgive me I'm on the mobile site so I can't see if your bike is listed or not. I have a 14 sg that drops about 3 to 4 drops on the o2 sensor every once is a while. what year is your bike?. I have esp also so taking it in a option just hate having those guys wrench on my bike. but warranty work I'll let them do.
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