To me personally the only debate about activating the ABS module is in these forums.

The ABS module does not have to be activated during a brake fluid flush and there is absolutely no mention in any official HD manual that says different. (per others who have posted)

The ABS module does have to be flushed IF you are bleeding the system to get air out.

For the heck of it, after I flush my fluids I do hit the brakes hard a couple times. I dont know why we, in forums tend to make a big deal out of some stuff, no place in the maintenance manual does Harley state brake fluid flush must be done by the dealer, yet internet hysteria spreads like wildfire and the simplest of things turns into a big deal. ) .

 

Without activating the abs, old brake fluid remains in the abs hcu. Bleeding, then activating the abs while riding will mix old fluid with new. Bleeding again will change that mixture. Activating the valves/solenoids while flushing will force old fluid out of all abs circuits.

This schematic was taken from BWI, the abs supplier in 08-13, web site a couple years ago. The supplier removed all info about these abs units when **** started to hit the fan a couple years ago. Read the below schematic to draw your own conclusions on the best way to flush brake fluid. But please dont listen to the misinformation that a few are still posting as brakes are too important.

 

Kumaride,
Your completely wrong and I needed to point this out in the strongest way since you are the one spreading MISINFORMATION.
Your post is completely wrong and almost dangerous because your making the most basic SIMPLE brake fluid replacement seem like it is more then and it is and some people may not do it by listening to posts such as yours.
With that said ....

OK PEOPLE, LISTEN UP, STOP TURNING THE MOST BASIC BRAKE FLUID REPLACEMENT INTO SOMETHING IT IS NOT.
AS MUCH AS YOU MAY WANT TO THINK YOU ARE A SMART PERSON BY CHANGING YOUR BRAKE FLUID IT TAKES NO BRAINS AND NO SPECIAL EQUIPMENT EXCEPT IF YOU WANT TO BUY A CHEAP BRAKE FLUID PUMP FOR $20 TO $30 IN HARBOR FREIGHT OR WHEREVER...

It amazes me how the most basic, stupid task can be blown up into a bunch of mindless crap that is COMPLETELY INCORRECT.

YOU DO NOT HAVE TO ACTIVATE THE ABS MECHANISM IN THE HARLEY TOURING BIKES WHEN CHANGING THE BRAKE FLUID!
I REPEAT, YOU DO NOT HAVE TO ACTIVATE THE ABS MECHANISM ON THE HARLEY TOURING BIKES (OR ANY OTHER) WHEN CHANGING THE BRAKE FLUID.

HOW STUPID MORE SIMPLE CAN IT BE TO UNDERSTAND THAT?

Ok, now I am going to take a chance that most will be able to follow what I am about to say, are you all ready? I know most of you will get it but some will turn it into another UNIFORMED comment.
IF YOU INTRODUCE AIR INTO THE BRAKE SYSTEM SUCH AS CHANGING OUT COMPONENTS, Calipers, Master Cylinders ect, then you are NO LONGER CHANGING THE BRAKE FLUID as at the point, you have introduced air into the system and now you need to BLEED THE BRAKE SYSTEM, TO PROPERLY BLEED THE BRAKE SYSTEM THEN THE ABS MUST BE ACTIVATED.

Gosh, how much more stupid simple can this be to understand?
For gods sake, it is RIGHT IN THE HARLEY DAVIDSON SHOP MANUAL!
I WILL EVEN GIVE YOU THE PAGE NUMBER SO YOU DONT HAVE TO USE THE TABLE OF CONTENTS AS FAR AS THE 2014 TOURING SHOP MANUAL.
SIMPLY GO TO PAGE 1-40 (THAT IS ONE-FORTY)

THANK YOU, SO ENDS TODAYS RANT.
(btw the way, just having fun, not intended to insult anyone)

 

Interesting comments on both sides...... This is a rare case of two different positions on a subject, backed by what each poster considers proof of their "theory"... This isn't, in my opinion, a case of an expert giving indisputable evidence being countered by someone just repeating hersesay or an unsubstantiated theory.

By the schematic, if correct, it all depends on the default/running settings on the isolation and dump valves.... unfortunately, to put this "debate" to rest, we would need that info... I don't have it.... and I haven't seen a reliable source quoted. BUT.... If the default running position is an open isolation valve and a closed dump valve, it would be likely that some fluid would be trapped in the circuit from the pump, to the accumulator, and through the dump valve. If the default is that both the isolation and dump valves are open, it would be possible to get a complete flush, but looks like a short flush time/volume, could still leave some old fluid in the pump to accumulator, to dump valve pathway.

Kumaride offers a schematic to back his theory of fluid flushing.... I just don't know if the schematic is truly accurate, or the default positions of the valves..

Alarmdog offers a line in the service manual to back his theory of fluid flushing.... Yeah, good source. Yet... I've seen the manual be less than accurate before, both by accident or to push a MoCo preference...

It is obvious you both firmly believe in your positions, and as such, you are trying to help out your fellow bikers....

Kudos to both of you....!!

As a non-expert in this area, I don't believe either of you has offered indisputable proof of your position....

For my part;

I know that flushing a hydraulic system, is different than bleeding a hydraulic system... and

I BELIEVE, that even if Kumaride is correct, that there is a very small percentage of the old fluid left/trapped in the system, if it is just flushed out without actuating the ABS system.

What I have, and will continue to do, 1st on my '12 Limited and now on my '16 Ultra Classic (yes, I know the '16 has a better ABS system), is to flush the system, take if for a ride activating the ABS a couple times, and then do a re-flush. It's only done every two years, so not a lot of work, and DOT 4 really doesn't cost so much that a double flush is outrageous,,,

That procedure allows for a fuller flush on either "theory", and gives me an opportunity to test & practice activating the ABS in a non-panic situation.....

I thank you both for your efforts...... as for the rest of us, we need to do what we believe to be the most effective flush within our abilities, budgets and/or risk-benefit analysis....

Just as we do with any other decision we make about our bike's safety & maintenance .... IMHO......

 

Lemme add...just do what you're confident in doin'. Either way. No biggie.

 

I agree, besides - time will probably tell that the problem is not the fluid anyway!

 

For those of us who don't have 2014 Touring Manual...How about showing us the appropriate sections/page(s) that are being referenced.


.

 

Nothing wrong with your double flush if it makes you happy, we all have our thing.

As far as me? you use the word "proof" of my position.
Well, for me, I dont need any proof, I purchased a motorcycle (or any product) and I follow the service maintenance section of the manual and I perform it as such. I, in this case actually confirmed what my owners manual says about brake fluid changes with the official Harley Davidson shop manual ..

I mean, what more thinking (again for me) can someone ask for. I can pick any product apart and find a reason not to do what a manufacturer recommends but then I wouldnt bother buying their product anyway.

I mean what is the purpose about a post regarding BMW when HD says to just change the fluid? We can do that with any part and any product. Does the person posting believe the HD or not?
Was the person posting aware, in this case, Harley makes no mention of any ABS activation for a simple brake fluid change?
Which then, leads me to make the following last statement on this issue (ha ha) ... as I said it all in my post above this one ...

"You can take a horse to water, but you cant make him drink"

The "water" is spelled out the owners manual backed up by the shop manual. In this case 2014 touring page 1-40 no mention of activating ABS for Brake Fluid Change.

Anyway, well though out post and just talikng here.