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I looked it up and instructions say to remove gas tank. Is that really necessary? I just want to remove the sensor and clean it. But don't want to remove tank. I would if I had to. But is it necessary? Thanks
2011 Electra Glide Limited
The Tmap sensor is easily accessible once the air cleaner is off. I clean mine at each service. I remove the air cleaner and clean the throttle plate, intake runners and Tmap sensor with spray carburetor cleaner. I open the throttle plate by gently pushing on it with a finger. I hold it open with a short piece of 1/4 wooden dowel rod. I wouldn't think you could get it any cleaner by removing it.
The Tmap sensor is easily accessible once the air cleaner is off. I clean mine at each service. I remove the air cleaner and clean the throttle plate, intake runners and Tmap sensor with spray carburetor cleaner. I open the throttle plate by gently pushing on it with a finger. I hold it open with a short piece of 1/4 wooden dowel rod. I wouldn't think you could get it any cleaner by removing it.
It's like super humid here. And rainy. Soo. I loosened the tank bolts in front removed rear bolts. Stuck a piece of 2x4 under tank. And removed it. It was black but not really carboned up. It's a 2011 bike has never been cleaned before so I would guess it's running correctly. Has a DYI stage 1 kit with FP3. It does seem to have bit more pep. I will check it with my FP3 because I can check torque and HP. So I checked it before and will see if anything changed. So it was black, After I cleaned it.It was bright brass color. So at the very least after 7 years it was a little dirty. Also while I had it off found a few destroyed o rings and a bit of oil in the air cleaner which is normal in my IMO. Got everything cleaned up changed and high and tight in about 1.5 hours well worth it. Thank you for you response. Moving forward now that I know it's clean to star with I will do that which you do. Seems to be what motor heads recommend. But unless you have issues not sure it's necessary but I am not really a performance person. IMO Most people that have trouble with there bikes are people who upgraded performance like cams, bore kits and so on. My bike gets great gas mileage. 42 city long HWY trips 48 to 50. Seems to be quite fast and zippy. lol Maintenance in never a waste of time!
Just my but I'd use a Mass Airflow Sensor spray cleaner instead of a carburetor cleaner. MAF cleaner won't leave any residue whereas a carb cleaner can and that isn't a good thing!
Harleys don't have mass airflow sensors (MAF). They have Temperature Manifold Absolute Pressure sensors. (MAP/TMAP). They are very different in what they do and how they work. MAF cleaners are formulated for MAF sensors. They might work for MAP sensors as well. But unless there's a lot of crud in your induction module there's no need to clean it.
Harleys don't have mass airflow sensors (MAF). They have Temperature Manifold Absolute Pressure sensors. (MAP/TMAP). They are very different in what they do and how they work. MAF cleaners are formulated for MAF sensors. They might work for MAP sensors as well. But unless there's a lot of crud in your induction module there's no need to clean it.
Never said that HD had a MAF sensor but the MAF cleaner is a better choice for cleaning delicate sensors that don't get along too well with any residue that may be left behind after the cleaner evaporates.
[QUOTE=Bingee;17512717]Harleys don't have mass airflow sensors (MAF). They have Temperature Manifold Absolute Pressure sensors. (MAP/TMAP). They are very different in what they do and how they work. MAF cleaners are formulated for MAF sensors. They might work for MAP sensors as well. But unless there's a lot of crud in your induction module there's no need to clean it.[/QUOTE}
After I cleaned it. It looked brass colored. Looked like a tiny thermocouple. So temp sensor makes sense. Either way it's clean know and I used the correct cleaner.
Never said that HD had a MAF sensor but the MAF cleaner is a better choice for cleaning delicate sensors that don't get along too well with any residue that may be left behind after the cleaner evaporates.
Didn't mean to imply that you did. Just wanted to point out the difference. As for cleaning? This might help.
I posted most of this text in another thread about engine temperature sensor problems. I had an issue this year with both my engine temperature sensor and my TMAP sensor. My bike when cold would start OK and seem to idle OK but within a few minutes of getting on the road it would start running really rough, would not idle and often just shut down and also when running it would hunt with RPM surging high then low and high and shut down. I was getting error codes P0117, P0118 & P0113. The P0117 & P0118 have to do with the engine temperature sensor and the P0113 is related to the TMAP sensor. I changed my engine temperature sensor and went for a test ride and it was still acting up. I checked my error codes. No more P0117 and P0118 error code but I still had the P0113 code (TMAP sensor). I checked under the wiring looms and found one of the 3-way soldered connections where one of the wires branched off to the TMAP sensor had vibrated and broken off at the wire going to the TMAP sensor. I added a short length of wire and soldered everything back and shrink tubing all the bare connections. I already had a new TMAP sensor so I swapped out the old one for this new Fueling TMAP sensor. The old TMAP sensor was likely OK but being in there for 8 years I figured may as well change it. Went out for another test ride and now my 120R Trask Turbo FLHX is back to running smooth and strong like it always did. And no more error codes.
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