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I also confirmed that the hoses in the tank, as far as he knows, were not changed. The mechanic changed the fuel pressure regulator, fuel filter, and maybe a clamp or 3, but as far as he knew, no hoses.
I will do as MURPHCC1 suggests first and see if I can see fuel spraying around inside the tank when the pump primes.
I think my next plan of attack then is to pull the tank and the fuel pump/sender/filter assembly and check things out there.
I had the same problem. I have a thundermax computer and swore it was from that. They told me it was probably my comp assm. I didn't believe them at all. Reprogrammed it, updated it blah blah blah. Nothing worked. Did a little research and found that the comp assm and auto chain adjuster was probably to blame. I inspected the comp assm, and I did have a weak spring. I replaced the comp with a s.e.one and an aftermarket chain adjuster and only one no start since (that was an extreme case so I'll accept that.)going on 3k and all is well.
so might wanna looking into the primary for a weak or failed comp sprocket.
My buddy whose house the bike is being stored at did the fuel cap off, look for fuel movement during priming test and he said he could see fuel spraying in the tank. I will confirm it tomorrow and if I see it as well I will likely pull the tank apart on Monday and check everything really closely.
Pulling the tank apart is likely the least intrusive thing I can do.
the stock routing of the hose puts the top part of the hose against a metal brace, mine rubbed a hole in the hose at the top of the arch of the hose.........symptoms as you described.
also, the method of hitting the start button right after you turn on the ignition is a good one.........
Check for any codes. As others have said, could be fuel lines. Easy check for this is to run the tank low, does it run poorly? Sounds to me like an electrical issue. Possibly the ECM, a relay, or circuit breaker. Check all electrical connections and relays. Youll need the factory electrical and diagnosis manual to check and test everything circuit breakers and relays. Look for signs of heat damage at wireing to relays and breakers; wires will be discolored and brittle looking. Check the wire ends where the plug into connectors.
Be patient and methodical. FESM has good flow charts for diagnosis. Good luck.
I won't be buying a service manual for this bike. It's not mine and I'm just trying to help my buddy out. If it's more than what I want to deal with ill just tell him to take it to an actual shop.
I think I have enough suggestions to keep me busy for a day or so.
Before you start taking things apart get you a spare spark plug and keep it with the bike take it for a ride when it's hot and won't start unplug one cylinder plug the spare plug in and ground it to the head then try to start and look to see if you have spark that will tell you if the problem is fuel or spark. Under no condition never remove the spark plug from a hot motor ever. Ask me how I know
I believe this is NOT supposed to happen. To me the fuel spray is coming from the filter housing, which I read is easily cracked. Im going to pull it apart shortly. I hope I dont have to pull the tank. Pulling the top pieces out is much easier than pulling the rest.
man im glad the guts come out the top... why I thought I needed to pull the tank to pull the pump is beyond me...
Anyway. Got the guts pulled out. I see zero damage to any of the hoses. All of the internal o-rings look good to me.
The filter assembly looks ok, no obvious cracks, EXCEPT the flange where the big u clip goes to hold it all together appears to be warped to me. That is where one side of the u clip sits. It seems to me that this is causing the housing to not seal and thus not build pressure. I was re-checking the housing when I noticed everything was rocking around and didnt feel like the o-ring was sealing.
The o-ring is pulled down in this picture, but right there is where I believe its warped.
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