When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Did the adjustment to my Ultra today but I still dont like the release. It disengages too close to the grip. I backed off the adjustment screw at 5/8 turn and left 1/8 free play in the lever. I know there is a half to a full turn range on the adjustment. My question is:should I go more or less on the clutch adjustment screw.
What are you referring to exactly? Are you simply attempting to adjust by turning the clutch cable "screw" in the middle of the clutch cable? If so, that's only half the process. You're not receiving any quick answers, I think, because you're not real clear on what you've done to adjust, even if you think you've been. The primary adjustment is actually done inside the derby cover on the primary side, but I have to believe that you know that.
Some clarification will help you receive the answer that you're seeking.
I did both, inside the primary and at the cable. Backed off the primary adjustment 5/8 turn after seating it. Adjusted the cable with 1/8 play. Still releases near the grip. I want it to release a little further out. Would I have to readjust the primary setting either more or less when backing out or can it be done at the cable.
I come out about 1/3rd of a turn on the adjustment screw. A half turn and I then have to adjust the cable too far out in order to get the release that I am looking for at the lever. I too like my clutch lever to release a little further out.
In answer to your question you would tighten the internal adjuster screw if you want the clutch to engage/disengage sooner (farther from the grip). If you are mindful of your clutch cable adjustment you can go with less than 1/8" gap at the clutch perch as well. I have braided cables and don't like that much slop in the lever. I probably only keep half of that but I check it frequently.
In answer to your question you would tighten the internal adjuster screw if you want the clutch to engage/disengage sooner (farther from the grip). If you are mindful of your clutch cable adjustment you can go with less than 1/8" gap at the clutch perch as well. I have braided cables and don't like that much slop in the lever. I probably only keep half of that but I check it frequently.
+1 with Geoff, turn the adjuster screw in till it just touches the clutch release push rod then back out 1/2 turn and lock it down, the cable adjustment is one dime free play. Slip a dime in the gap and when the dime falls out it's good to go. This way on all three of my Harley's Give it try .
Suggestion to check your REAL free play in the cable. Pull in the clutch lever, with your other hand try to pull the cable sheath out of the hole in the "perch". Keeping the pull on the cable sheath, release the clutch lever and as it reaches fully released, look at the space you have between the ferrule on the end of the sheath and the perch. I'll bet it is far more than 1/8 inch. Re-adjust your cable. Each person has his own way of doing things, but the hub release pin setting just assures that the release pin won't start pushing the pressure plate toward the release direction with no cable actuation. To illustrate, with the cable fully loose as described in the clutch adjustment procedure, it is possible to partially or fully release the clutch by screwing in the adjustment screw as far as it will go, obviously no way to leave the adjustment. If the adjuster is adjusted to where it just touches the pressure plate and locked, as the clutch plates wear, the pressure plate will not be able to take up that slack and the clutch will eventually begin to slip. By setting the adjuster 1/2 to 1 turn out, the pressure plate can move in toward the plates to take up slack and provide full lock-up as the clutch wears. If the hub adjustment is ignored long enough, the 1/2 to 1 turn out "slack" will be lost and the clutch will begin to slip not long after. Set the hub for the 1/2 to 1 turn out to allow for clutch wear and set the friction point with the lever where you want it with the cable adjustment. Just be certain to have AT LEAST the minimum cable free play as described in the book.
5/8 is barely enough for a hot place like FL. Not sure how you stand that 1/8 free play. I like mine at bare minimum checked at both locks. When you have 1/8 you are not getting a lot of plate separation.
7 Surprising Harley-Davidson Products that Are Not Motorcycles
Slideshow: The bar-and-shield logo shows up on far more than motorcycles, some of the company's most unexpected products have nothing to do with riding.
Slideshow: From the troubled AMF years to modern misfires, these bikes earned reputations for reliability issues, questionable engineering, or disappointing performance.
Crazy Bunderbike Build Looks Amazing, But Is It Impossible to Ride?
Slideshow: The Swiss custom shop has taken a Harley Softail and stretched it into something so long and low that it looks closer to a rolling sculpture than a conventional motorcycle.
Engraved Rebellion: Inside Bundnerbike's Glam Rock II
Slideshow: A standard cruiser becomes an intricate metal canvas in the hands of a Swiss custom house known for pushing Harley-Davidson platforms far beyond their factory brief.
Slideshow: Harley-Davidson's challenges aren't abstract; they show up in dropping shipments, shrinking dealer traffic, and strategic decisions that aren't yet translating into growth.