What specifically are you concerned about?
The tuner would have to do something increadably stupid or malicious to cause the engine harm.
Of course there could always be a freak accident or mechanical failure but then you could have a heart attack or stroke on the way to the dyno too.
If you're really that worried check the shop's reputation and insurance...

 

 

If my 99 bike with 115,000 when last dynoed can handle it, I'm sure yours will be fine. It now has 122,xxx on it. Dynoed @ Ray C's HD runs great plugs look as they should. I didn't watch him do the Dyno as I was busy rodding on the owners brand new stage 4 with 192 miles on it that had just been dynoed. Two bikes one new other with lots of miles. What the tuner told me if there was anything wrong with the bike the dyno would bring it out.

 

Something to think about. The FP3 tuner or most any tuner does not work on the fly so to speak. Even auto tuner runs but you need to apply what it's learned. What I'm getting at is if you had the tuner/s on for awhile but the popping started weeks or days later. Something else changed. "It is commonly caused by ignition of the air/fuel mixture while it is still in the intake manifold. This usually happens because the inlet valve is sticking or leaking or because there is an ignition system fault. Unburnt air/fuel mixture passing through the exhaust and igniting also results in popping/backfiring." Other than a bad tuner. Unlikey BTW. Since the tune is a map and already applied. Check for misfiring plugs,plug wires, exhaust leak. Problems with high flow air cleaner. Most of those checks are pretty simple and easy. Would be interested to hear what was the problem when you get it resolved. Good luck.

 

When on the dyno he's going to twist to wide open throttle until it hits the rev limiter. Unless something is already wrong with your bike, then all should be fine.

I suggest you have a discussion with the guy tuning your bike before hand to tell him what you want out of the tune, your riding style, one up or two up, do you want fuel mileage or raw power, etc. He can tune it according to your wishes. For example. I use my road king for commuting and spend most of my time on the frwy with the cruise set at 70MPH. He leaned it out slightly at that RPM range so I get good fuel mileage. I also told him I almost never go over 80 so torque to get there quick was more important to me than top end HP and he tuned accordingly. I have good torque and acceleration pulling on to the highway and get good mileage when I set the cruise. When you talk to him he will make suggestions and talk about what he can do so you get a tune for the way you ride and not the way he does.

When he's done and shows you the dyno sheet, don't obsess over the HP and torque numbers. Look for smooth lines on the curves and then take it for a ride and see how you like it. Does it have smooth acceleration and run good? Sound good? Some people like to brag about the numbers but since they are subjective to the individual dyno and the weather that day, a couple of extra hp or torque either way on the max number is not really as important as how it feels and rides.

Now would be a great time to throw a set of cams in it first !

Good luck and enjoy the new tune.

 

This is just my opinion - retrieve the FP3 from the trash can and put the PCV in there. The PCV is a piggyback tuner, it is not a flash tuner that overwrites the ECM. The FP3 has settings to reduce or eliminate decel popping. The FP3 also has it's own autotune feature. Learn how to use it and you will see the difference. Again, this is just my own opinion - ditch the Power Commander as the FP3 is far superior.

As for the dyno tuning question, the tuner will likely have you sign a release acknowledging that you assume all risks. Remember, the bike will be run to redline several times. I've never heard of a bike being damaged during the tuning process but I guess anything is possible.

 

No good tuner will use a FP3. The dislike of them by tuners is well known. Tuners like certain ones, TTS, PV, etc. By the one your guy likes, it won't be the FP3

 

If it was running ok before and just started decal popping with no other changes then I'd look at the intake manifold seals. The go bad and create decal popping.

I hope this helps.