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Wheel bearing question

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Old Aug 5, 2018 | 06:10 PM
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Default Wheel bearing question

I have noticed a light vibration in my bars when I go into a big curve or do a weave around 50-65 mph. I have had the bike on the jack and everything seems tight and the front wheel turns easily and quietly. Is this a early sign of a wheel bearing going out? 2018 RGU with 5k mi. All input appreciated. Thanks
 
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Old Aug 5, 2018 | 06:40 PM
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What do the tires look like? Any cupping? Pressure good?
 
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Old Aug 5, 2018 | 06:46 PM
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Tire pressure right(36 &40) and no unusual wear or cupping.
 
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Old Aug 5, 2018 | 06:53 PM
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It's a possibility, but so are a few other things. And sometimes the first indication you get from a bearing going out is when it grenades, not how easy it turns. Since you have jacked it and the wheel seemed ok, try putting 2-4 more psi in the tires than you usually would, and if it gets better it could be a tire problem; that shouldn't happen with 5K miles, but occasionally a tire is just bad when its new. You could check the brake disk bolts to make sure they haven't loosened or were just not tight enough in the first place, but unless you use a torque wrench, just check for snug, not tight till they move, that will break the loctite bond. Check the lower fork axle clamp bolts, too. Hard to check anything on top with that fairing, would be near last on my check list.

Lot of threads here about wheel bearing failures, so I can understand if you're concerned about them. Only way to really check them good is pull the axle enough to drop out a spacer so you can pop the seal off and look inside, make sure the ball cage isn't crunching up and there's plenty of clean grease, but if you've got the newer bearings with metal outer covers, that won't work, you'll wreck the metal shield trying to pry it off.
 
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Old Aug 5, 2018 | 07:53 PM
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Thanks Imold, I'll try a little more tire pressure and check the disc bolts. I've ran it through the steering head bearing check per the manual, and it checked out pretty close. Kind of a complicated procedure on this bike and to adjust it requires loosing the top pinch bolt which is not easy to get to, so I left it alone.
 
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Old Aug 5, 2018 | 08:17 PM
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Could be a wheel bearing, but more likely it's loose neck bearings. Also could be a belt in a tire separating. Check and fix one thing at a time.
 
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Old Sep 25, 2018 | 05:25 PM
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Update on vibration on curves. Took it to the dealer and they supposedly adjusted the neck bearing. I could tell no difference after they got done. Took it back and tech said it seemed fine to him. Ha! I can tell when something doesn't feel right. Rode for a few weeks and felt it was getting worse, so I took it to my local Indy and told him the problem. He took one look and said both my front and rear tires were cupped. Replaced the front tire with a American Elite and problem solved. I'll replace the rear next month. OEM's started cupping at around 5,000 mi. I watch the pressure closely. Indy suggested I run the pressure at 40 front, 41 rear. I guess I didn't know what a cupped tire looked or felt like, but I do now.
 
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Old Sep 25, 2018 | 05:30 PM
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+1
Originally Posted by Imold
It's a possibility, but so are a few other things. And sometimes the first indication you get from a bearing going out is when it grenades, not how easy it turns. Since you have jacked it and the wheel seemed ok, try putting 2-4 more psi in the tires than you usually would, and if it gets better it could be a tire problem; that shouldn't happen with 5K miles, but occasionally a tire is just bad when its new. You could check the brake disk bolts to make sure they haven't loosened or were just not tight enough in the first place, but unless you use a torque wrench, just check for snug, not tight till they move, that will break the loctite bond. Check the lower fork axle clamp bolts, too. Hard to check anything on top with that fairing, would be near last on my check list.

Lot of threads here about wheel bearing failures, so I can understand if you're concerned about them. Only way to really check them good is pull the axle enough to drop out a spacer so you can pop the seal off and look inside, make sure the ball cage isn't crunching up and there's plenty of clean grease, but if you've got the newer bearings with metal outer covers, that won't work, you'll wreck the metal shield trying to pry it off.
+1

 
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Old Sep 25, 2018 | 05:43 PM
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When off the ground turn front wheel if the bearing is going you will hear it. Also look for rust lines running down from the bearing. Extreme case shown here seal is pulled back
 
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Old Sep 25, 2018 | 06:00 PM
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First - Always listen to Dawg who, like always, nailed it in the first response to your post. He knows his stuff. Second - Always go to the Indy first. I bet if you ask, they can do any warranty work you might have in the future as well. A reputable indy is almost always going to do a better job on your bike that the recent motorcycle mechanic school grad you find in most bays at a dealer. The Indy's name is on the line and he wants you to come back. The dealer mechanic doesn't talk to you and is only looking forward to quitting time. And even better, the Indy is also cheaper. No huge franchise fees.

I'm glad you found it and that it was a simple fix.

I understand your concern over the front wheel bearings. I've caught two sets on the verge of failing. They are cheap in both build and price so I change them with every front tire replacement for peace of mind.
 
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