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Hey everyone! I put 12" LA Choppers twin Peak bars on my bike. I ask a kind of similar question about the clutch cable I think last week about using the stock clutch cable or should I get a extended one. So I got a +6" extended clutch cable and it was a LA Choppers cable that suppose to be used with the 12"-14" bars. Well, here's my concern, I adjusted the clutch in the primary, then I started adjusting the clutch cable, kept turning, turning and turning well it ran out of thread, but I caught it and screwed it back on the cable probably 4 threads tighten down the jam nut and I went up to the clutch lever and started pulling in the clutch and letting out probably 4 or 5 times. I started bike in neutral, turn bars left and right to check the cable for binding and to make sure it didn't go into gear when I turn the bars left or right. Back it out of garage and rode it around my side yard turn right and turning left to make sure it didn't come out of gear when turning, everything checked ok, so I went down the road went through all 6 gears smooth, no stumbles or anything. Sorry for being long, The concern is that a lot of people that I watch on you tube adjusting the clutch cable was always saying make sure you have that 1/8" gap up at the clutch lever, well mine is more than 1/8". Would I just leave it alone seeing there's nothing binding, it goes into all gears smooth and turning right or left it doesn't come out of gear or should I go down to a +4" extended cable?
The gap at the clutch perch is somewhat subjective. Common is a nickel’s width or 1/8” when adjusted to 1/2 turn at the basket. Some have more or less depending on where they like the engagement. If it works well for you where it is at, keep it where it is. If you desire something different, adjust it or change it. I run a Muller Power Clutch ramp assembly which uses 1/8 turn at the basket and have about 1/16” at the perch for my sweet spot.
The gap at the clutch perch is somewhat subjective. Common is a nickels width or 1/8 when adjusted to 1/2 turn at the basket. Some have more or less depending on where they like the engagement. If it works well for you where it is at, keep it where it is. If you desire something different, adjust it or change it. I run a Muller Power Clutch ramp assembly which uses 1/8 turn at the basket and have about 1/16 at the perch for my sweet spot.
Well the video's I looked at about adjusting the clutch in the primary first all the video's said loosen the jam nut on the what I call adjuster bolt then turn adjuster bolt in until you feel a slight resistance, then turn adjuster bolt 1 full turn! Then put derby cover back on and you're ready to adjust clutch cable. That's exactly what I went by. But I think I'll leave it alone, it's working no binds, no gears are disengaging when turning or gears engaging while in neutral when turning handlebars.
You've done the right thing at the clutch end, all I suggest is that you reduce the cable slack a little at the lever end. Like dawg I use around 1/16" - personally I wouldn't be happy with 1/8", that seems a little too much!
You've done the right thing at the clutch end, all I suggest is that you reduce the cable slack a little at the lever end. Like dawg I use around 1/16" - personally I wouldn't be happy with 1/8", that seems a little too much!
i agree with GR, when adjusting the 1/8 slack is also to much for me.
You've done the right thing at the clutch end, all I suggest is that you reduce the cable slack a little at the lever end. Like dawg I use around 1/16" - personally I wouldn't be happy with 1/8", that seems a little too much!
I can't reduce the clutch cable anymore, there maybe 4-5 threads left on the clutch cable. As I was taking slack out of the cable the first time the part that your turn to tighten or put slack in the cable ran out of threads and I had to thread it back on the thread part maybe 4 turns. Then I checked the clutch lever and started checking for binding and coming out of gear. That's why I ask do you think I need to go to a +4" cable instead of a +6" cable. Do you think I need to take the slack back out of the cable the go into the primary and just do a 1/2 turn? The first time I turn a full turn.
I would check your primary again. The +6 should not be too long. Maybe it's possible the inner cable is too long for the outer sheath? I would check adjustment before anything else.
I would check your primary again. The +6 should not be too long. Maybe it's possible the inner cable is too long for the outer sheath? I would check adjustment before anything else.
Ok! So, go back and loosen up the clutch cable going to the lever, then when I get back into the primary, I loosen the jam nut, then turn what I call clutch bolt till I feel friction then should I just do a half turn back out then tighten jam nut, then go back to clutch cable and make adjustments until I get the 1/16" on the lever like some of the guys said on here? The first time I did the clutch adjustment I turn the clutch bolt till I felt friction and I back it out 1 full turn then put the derby back on then I went and start tightening the clutch cable going to the lever, I didn't think the lever was tight enough so I kept turning the lower sheath then all of a sudden the lower sheath I was turning came off the threads from the upper part but I married them back up and turned it about 4-5 turns then I checked lever, felt fine. So I started bike in neutral, turn bars left and right to make sure it didn't slip into gear, then I rode it around my yard and did right and left turns no clutch slippage, then I hauled butt down the hwy through all the gears and back down the gears and everything felt good so I went back home.
I have a new +4 cable that I purchased when I swapped my bars but I didn't like how tight it was. let me know if you want to swap as I need a spare.
What size bars did you put on your bike. I would consider swapping cables, but I would have to find time to get the +6" cable off bike, seeing it's football season. Is the +4 cable you got have you already took cable off your bike?
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