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I own an electra glide 2010.
First time inner bearing race problems after 20k km. I installed a Hayden chain tensioner and changed the outer bearing of the race of course.
Now 2e time again a bad race after 15k km. I can do the job myself to change the race but this is not normal I think.
I now changed the primary oil for ATF-ford ( thinner oil) en installed a race from S&S whitch can't travel to the seal.
What more can I do to make the bike reliable? Baker attitude chain tensioner? baker compensating sprocket?
The S&S race is the fix. I think you will be ok from here.
Zach
Originally Posted by han V
Hello,
I own an electra glide 2010.
First time inner bearing race problems after 20k km. I installed a Hayden chain tensioner and changed the outer bearing of the race of course.
Now 2e time again a bad race after 15k km. I can do the job myself to change the race but this is not normal I think.
I now changed the primary oil for ATF-ford ( thinner oil) en installed a race from S&S whitch can't travel to the seal.
What more can I do to make the bike reliable? Baker attitude chain tensioner? baker compensating sprocket?
I own an electra glide 2010.
First time inner bearing race problems after 20k km. I installed a Hayden chain tensioner and changed the outer bearing of the race of course.
Now 2e time again a bad race after 15k km. I can do the job myself to change the race but this is not normal I think.
I now changed the primary oil for ATF-ford ( thinner oil) en installed a race from S&S whitch can't travel to the seal.
What more can I do to make the bike reliable? Baker attitude chain tensioner? baker compensating sprocket?
a little unclear, you changed the bearing back when AND the race at the same time? or just the bearing?
unclear why you'd think the Hayden or your comp would play into its failure?
Barbie comment above....how do you remove the comp and clutch? are you using the locking bar? or the little 'steps' that are advised against
not going to get into a fluid discussion, but I run F+, it works really well for me.
I changed the bearing inner race (S&S)and the bearing which is coming over the race sitting in the chaincase housing.
reading more about the problem i'am going to believe the real problem is coming from a bad compensating sprocket. Last week i added a 5th spring into the compensator facing out and the bike is like a dream. No more clunk, clink and a smooth ride. When i stop the motor a quit end and not a clunk.
reading more about the problem i'am going to believe the real problem is coming from a bad compensating sprocket. Last week i added a 5th spring into the compensator facing out and the bike is like a dream. No more clunk, clink and a smooth ride. When i stop the motor a quit end and not a clunk.
Got any info on this spring you added? My comp is needing to be replaced as well.
I got the spring from my dealer. its the same one as the other 4.
So you left the original 4 in there and added a 5th? Sounds simple enough and far cheaper than a replacement comp.
I still think I'm going to replace mine with the Baker comp and be done with it.
Last edited by SBates08; Sep 17, 2018 at 10:58 AM.
So you left the original 4 in there and added a 5th? Sounds simple enough and far cheaper than a replacement comp.
I still think I'm going to replace mine with the Baker comp and be done with it.
Baker Comp and their attitude adjuster is the way to go. Had it on my Dyna and everything was solid and quiet.
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