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LoneBone
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Get both front and rear tire pressures set correctly, and let us know if that helps.
How in the hell do you figure 32 psi is dangerously low?? Low? Yes....DANGEROUSLY low? Hardly...Originally Posted by IdahoHacker
32 psi is NOT "on the low side." It is dangerously low. In addition to causing poor handling, it will cause accelerated tire wear, and probably cupping as well.Get both front and rear tire pressures set correctly, and let us know if that helps.
I doubt it would cause poor handling either....the only thing accurate in your post was accelerated tire wear.
Never get hysterical....
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I have a 2017 Limited and have the same issue, 7,500 miles on tire. I had neck bearing checked and dealer said low tire pressure and as a result cupping. I brought my expensive tire gauge (I set tire pressure every two weeks) to the dealer to calibrate and found out my gauge was too low by 3psi.
I will swap tires during winter storage as dealer provides free labor and watch tire pressure next year.
I will swap tires during winter storage as dealer provides free labor and watch tire pressure next year.
IdahoHacker
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I doubt it would cause poor handling either....the only thing accurate in your post was accelerated tire wear.
Never get hysterical....
Oh, c'mon. Originally Posted by LoneBone
How in the hell do you figure 32 psi is dangerously low?? Low? Yes....DANGEROUSLY low? Hardly...I doubt it would cause poor handling either....the only thing accurate in your post was accelerated tire wear.
Never get hysterical....

I run 40/42, which is a tad higher than "recommended". On the other hand, I have no issues with cupping or with poor handling, and I get great mileage.
32 is very, very, low. Ok, I'll take back "dangerously", but 32 indicates a rider who is not checking tire pressure as often as he should.
Interesting. This problem is sounding like the front end problem that the 2001 to 2017 goldwings apparently have. From reading the wing forums some had the problem, some didn't, tire types discussed, bringing up the air pressure, fork braces, cartridges, etc. but no definitive solution.
My 2010 FLHTCU's front end dive was driving me to distraction but a change to 20 wt. fork oil helped a lot without making the ride overly harsh. No problem with front tire wear.
My 2005 Goldwing (got it this May - couldn't resist a low price low mileage machine in good condition) rides nice but the front tire is cupping on the left side. Certain bumps and I think I can feel the forks flex.
It seems like the heavy bikes are showing the limitations of what is a modern take on the 1940's suspension design.
My 2010 FLHTCU's front end dive was driving me to distraction but a change to 20 wt. fork oil helped a lot without making the ride overly harsh. No problem with front tire wear.
My 2005 Goldwing (got it this May - couldn't resist a low price low mileage machine in good condition) rides nice but the front tire is cupping on the left side. Certain bumps and I think I can feel the forks flex.
It seems like the heavy bikes are showing the limitations of what is a modern take on the 1940's suspension design.
grbrown
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That may well be true, but we owners have a hand in this - maintaining correct tyre pressures being at the top of the list! We haven't heard about the rear tyre pressure, which may also be below par. If the owner/rider is very light or heavy, then we are at liberty to adjust pressures accordingly. IMHO Harley has never properly addressed this subject. I have three pressure settings for my Glide: solo, duo and touring (in other words loaded to the gunnels), all established with riding experience and experimentation.Originally Posted by miner999r
It seems like the heavy bikes are showing the limitations of what is a modern take on the 1940's suspension design.
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LoneBone
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Agreed...Originally Posted by IdahoHacker
Ok, I'll take back "dangerously", but 32 indicates a rider who is not checking tire pressure as often as he should.
Road Master
Sounds like what my deluxe did. Changed front tire, tightened neck being to tight side of spec. Problem went away.
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OP: Motor mounts, neck bearings, fall away tests, tire pressure. Sure sounds like it could be expensive. Start with the free easy stuff. My OEM Dunlops rode "better" at 38 psi. Do you have a jack? Can you spin the tire and see if anything is warped? Rotor? Are any weights knocked off? Once on a jack, can you check for excessive play in the front end? All this is free, if you can do it.....
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You can chase this all season long, and eventually you'll change the tire and the problem will disappear. It'll balance and pass all sorts of test, but still do this. It's the tire.








