2001 FLHRCI Road King Classic
This is meaningful because if it only happened with the engine off it wouldn't be too surprising. That it happens with the engine on? I don't envy the diagnostics it might take to sort that out.
Anyway, the two issues may not be related.
I dont think the ECM is involved with your lighting circuitry so replacing that won't do anything for you.
I have a 2000 Ultra and here's the FSM diagnostic flow chart for the starting system. If you have the manual look up your diagnostics chart of follow it. My chart might even get you there.
Last edited by Z; Oct 24, 2018 at 05:52 PM.
very intermittent start. And he chased it down to a voltage drop from the start
switch thru all the several feet of wire AND connectors to the starter relay.
Thinking it was a corroded connector, he traced it to the first connector behind
the head light bucket, as I remember.
After he had cleaned and greased ever connection, it was much better and
would start cold ever time BUT when it got hot it was a 50/50 shot it would
start or not.
He said he went back and check ever connection along the way to the starter
solenoid/relay. And at ever connection the voltage drop would increase to finally
it would not pull in the relay.
His thinking was replace the wire from start switch to relay, maybe go up a gauge.
Or take the easy way out and put a PUSH BUTTON START on the back of starter.
Again his thinking was like the OP with a 01 bike, and his 03. that the wire had
become corroded internal over the years and maybe marginal to start with.
So 16/18 years of internal corrosion, and ganging the voltage drops to the relay
eventually leads to a NO START.
Hope you can follow this, and can lead to a good conclusion......tenn
Nipondenso starters are noted for burning the electric motor contacts in the solenoid plunger. Then the starter motor clicks solidly, but does not spin.
This usually starts happening occasionally, gradually getting worse. You do not describe this. None the less, removing the back cover of the solenoid is easy, as is removing the plunger. Then you can clean the plunger and scrape clean the motor contacts.
Not proclaiming that this is your problem. Just that it is a fairly common Nipondenso starter motor problem.
What electrical item have you added to bike during its life that was not factory original?
A severe drain that causes a battery to die will cause a huge amount of resistance that a jump may not be able to overcome.
From a distance it reads like a problem with charging system or you have something that is non-factory added and that item does not shut down with ignition.
Have you tested for a grounded stator?
Here is a youtube for a parasitic drain test.
What electrical item have you added to bike during its life that was not factory original?
A severe drain that causes a battery to die will cause a huge amount of resistance that a jump may not be able to overcome.
From a distance it reads like a problem with charging system or you have something that is non-factory added and that item does not shut down with ignition.
Have you tested for a grounded stator?
Here is a youtube for a parasitic drain test.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KF1gijj03_0
borrow a buddies battery and see if it starts with a fresh one, then tripe-check all of your grounds again, and look into testing your stator and voltage regulator.
Add year, make, model, miles and any change from stock.
Add details as in what has been changed or tested.. as in battery, charging system.
A lot of cranking and no start would lead someone to check fuel pump for operation, pressure, fuel injector wires, spark and finally to check if pushing up/in with hand on fuel connection under tank in order to make sure connector did not drop down and block fuel flow..let it prime while pushing up on connector and continue to hold while cranking.
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I was told it was from the relay wire being too small. I put this switch on the solenoid and it hadn't done it since so not sure if it was something corroded on the original cover?







