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Its not the minute change in depth, its the rotational position of the outer electrode. The significance of this varies with the engine. Most times theres hardly any difference. But sometimes the difference is real.
Theres a whole world out there on this, with using a sharpie to mark the electrode position on the ceramic, and using different shims or sized washers to get it positioned just right. NGK certainly plays this, selling special sized spark plug washers just for this.
Its not something you can usually feel through the butt dyno, but it can be measured on a real dyno, and can be the difference of winning a race, or not.
As for torque, it varies, depending on the type of plug:
Its not the minute change in depth, its the rotational position of the outer electrode. The significance of this varies with the engine. Most times theres hardly any difference. But sometimes the difference is real.
Theres a whole world out there on this, with using a sharpie to mark the electrode position on the ceramic, and using different shims or sized washers to get it positioned just right. NGK certainly plays this, selling special sized spark plug washers just for this.
Its not something you can usually feel through the butt dyno, but it can be measured on a real dyno, and can be the difference of winning a race, or not.
As for torque, it varies, depending on the type of plug:
But, make sure the oem instructions do or do not call for lubrication. Otherwise torque adjustment may be wrong.
Yes. Position would matter. Thanks for that. I myself am having trouble with plug change. Started with HD recommended. 040. No luck. Then tried suggestions from Forums. Been tweaking ever since. I did change Air Filter and the 2 breather hoses. Not sure if that would matter. I see some owners bypass running those vapors back through the carb to be burned. Is that an emissions thing? What's worse? Vapors out to atmosphere or burned and coming out as bad Carbons? My Brain hurts!!
I have been building engines and working on street rods and bikes all my life (61) I can not even tell you how many spark plugs I have put in. Never ever used a torque wrench or anti-seize on them. Never had a single problem.
I only use a torque wrench on head bolts and rod bolts. There have been so many people out there that have screwed things up by using torque wrenches. I know, I am so wrong, I know I should not be allowed to work on cars and bikes, but hey like I said I have never had any problems.
I have been building engines and working on street rods and bikes all my life (61) I can not even tell you how many spark plugs I have put in. Never ever used a torque wrench or anti-seize on them. Never had a single problem.
I only use a torque wrench on head bolts and rod bolts. There have been so many people out there that have screwed things up by using torque wrenches. I know, I am so wrong, I know I should not be allowed to work on cars and bikes, but hey like I said I have never had any problems.
Bruce
Same here. I think picking up a torque wrench for spark plugs is just asking for trouble-especially by someone that's not used to tightening bolts and nuts in general. How many times have I read where some guy had the TW set to foot lbs rather than inch lbs?? { and pulled till the bolt snapped}
It's what it called in my world regarding how tight does a bolt need to be? If you're a wrench, you know, if you're shade tree and have doubts, get more experience but I guess use a torque wrench...and if you're still confused, take it to dealership...or independent shop. I kinda see it as, if you're asking questions on simple things, maybe fixing things isn't ones "forte"... and that's okay. To be clear, I been a gearhead building motors for or with a few friends since 14 or so and never had a shop really do anything till I got a new bike two years ago. Even then I feel like I am doing something wrong. See how it works? Some will get what I am ranting...but to the post, get a manual, do what it says. Got to start somewhere...
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