I have an issue with a 103 stage 2. After the engine gets hot it will sputter and hiccup, not all the time. It also stalled twice on the same day and just before that happened it was like the clutch wasn't disengaging the trans. I had to hold the brakes and then stalled. I run 93 or better, already changed intake seals. Voltage is high almost 16. Original battery '13 24k miles and all this started not long after I did the stage 2. Can anyone point me in the right direction?

 

Have you done a tune up on it after the stage 2? Welcome to the forums as well.

 

Sounds like you need a clutch adjustment. I’m guessing your clutch isn’t quit fully disengaged when the lever is pulled in.

 

Do you have a hydraulic clutch? My guess would be the slave cylinder bleeding down while you are holding the lever pulled to the handlebar, though a master cylinder seep could cause the same symptom. Probably when your clutch problem is fixed, the engine will no longer cough and die either.

 

Yes, you need to sort out the clutch issue for sure. Then, get it to a reputable tuner which you should have done after the stage thing.

 

Thanks, yes I have a SE race tuner that was used to dyno the bike. Runs great until I sit in traffic for more that 5-10 minutes. I do a tune up on it myself every 8k or so, the progression is slowly getting worse.

 

Makes sense if your clutch is out of adjustment. When you sit in traffic, everything heats up, including the clutch plates. There’s a small amount of expansion and the plates make a very slight contact. This will effect how the bike runs, especially when stopped. This also explains the clutch not disengaging like you discribed in your original post.

 

Hi Keith welcome to the Forum from Utah!

Always post year, model and mods for the bike you're working on. Look at Skydudes sig he's got a pretty good description of his bike. I think you said original battery 2013 so it make me wonder if the bike is a 13 or 14, cable or hyd clutch. Did they put a new clutch spring in the stage 2? Like the others adjusting the clutch would be first on the list. Second would be checking the charging system, 16V is too high. I'll paste the procedures below
good luck
Bill


Testing:

Connectors and cables should be checked and cleaned first. Loose and corroded connectors, terminals and grounds can cause high resistance, impeding current flow. Check cables for broken or rubbed insulation and check continuity to make sure the conductor is not broken inside the insulation.

Coating connectors with dielectric grease will keep moisture out and reduce corrosion.

Use the schematics in the HD Electrical Diagnostic or Service manual to determine the location of additional connectors.





Battery testing:

First check and clean battery terminals, Battery cables and ground connections. To check cables, disconnect one end and Ohm out, wiggle while testing. Cables can and will corrode and the evidence can be concealed under the insulation.

If you are unsure of the battery’s condition charge it fully and take it to an auto parts store and have it load tested.

Voltmeter test:

Connect voltmeter positive to positive terminal on battery and voltmeter negative to battery negative terminal.

12.7 v = 100% charge

12.6 v = 75%

12.3 v = 50%

12.0 v = 25%

11.8 v = 0%

Watch the battery voltage when you start the bike, if a fully charged battery falls below 9.6 volts it’s time to replace it.

If a well charged battery runs down if the bike sits for a short time perform a current draw test. Set your meter to read 10 amps current. Pull your main fuse and insert the meter leads. Here’s a list of components and what current they will draw in milli amps, 1/1000 of an amp) from the 2015 manual:

LHCM 0.5

RHCM 0.5

Speedometer/ IM 0.5

Regulator 1.0

ABS 1.0

BCM 1.0

ECM 1.0

Security Siren 20.0

Radio 0.5

Amplifier 0.5

CB Module 0.5



If the Battery passes all tests check the charging system.

Charging System Testing:

Volt meter set to DCV 20V scale or higher.

With the bike in neutral and voltmeter attached to the battery, start the engine and rev to 3,000 rpm. If the voltage measures 13V – 14.7V the charging system is operating properly. If less than 13V test the Stator first. If Greater than 15.5V test the Voltage Regulator.



Stator testing

Turn the bike off and disconnect the Stator from the Voltage Regulator.

Testing a 3 phase Stator, (A single phase stator is tested in the same manner but the plug will only have 2 sockets).

The end of the connector from the stator has 3 sockets. Set your meter to ohms and connect one lead to the battery negative. With the other lead make contact with the conductors inside each socket. You are checking for a grounded coil winding, each socket should show an open circuit to ground, no continuity.

Now take both meter leads and check resistance between each of the three sockets, 1-2, 2-3 and 1-3. The resistance should be 0.1 – 0.3 ohm.

Next check the Stator’s AC output. Set the meter to ACV 100V scale. With the Stator unplugged from the VR and the bike in neutral, start the bike. Run the bike at 2,000 rpm and check the Stator output between sockets 1-2, 2-3 and 1-3. The voltage should read approximately 32-46 Volts AC, for the 50 amp Stator. Stators with other Amp ratings will be similar.

If the Stator continuity tests to ground and Phase to Phase are good but the output is not the Rotor may be bad.



One other indication that the stator may be bad is if your primary oil smells like a burnt circuit board.



Voltage Regulator Testing



Voltage readings of 15.5V and higher test wire from VR negative to battery negative, if less than 0.5 ohm replace Voltage Regulator.

If the output is less than 13V from the Voltage Regulator to the battery and the Stator output is good, disconnect the output cable from the VR to the Battery. Check continuity between the Voltage Regulator Positive wire and the battery Positive and the negative wire and battery negative. Repair or replace cable if needed. If the cables are good and the Stator tested well replace the Voltage Regulator.