Stuck push rod
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 2,557
Likes: 235
From: Texas
Yes I have the proper push rod covers for the adjustable push rods. The pushrods do no collapse enough to allow me to put them into the rockers and into the tappet covers. Youre supposed to be able to just remove the tappet covers and install then adjust the push rods. So far my attempts to do that have failed. I can get the intake one in that way but no matter which way I angle it I cant get the exhaust one in so I end up pulling the rockers
Thread Starter
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Intermediate
Joined: Apr 2019
Posts: 31
Likes: 3
From: Indianapolis
Wow! I do not have any experience with S&S adjustable pushrods, but I would have assumed that you could run the adjustment all the way in and the pushrod will go in with the cover and without removing the tappet cover...that is how the older SE adjustables and the new SE taper adjustables work. I replaced the lifters, pushrods, and covers without taking off the rocker covers...The most difficult part was turning the engine over using 5th gear and turning the rear wheel and watching for the intake valve to close and finding TDC...THAT is a ****
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 11,814
Likes: 5,120
From: SW Ohio
probably because you have indicated that something went wrong in the valve train...looking in the cam chest to make sure all is good there is cheap preventative insurance...
Pulling the rocker covers and rockers makes sense considering what you have described, but why would you have difficulty getting adjustable pushrods in and out without pulling the lifter covers and rockers???
Pulling the rocker covers and rockers makes sense considering what you have described, but why would you have difficulty getting adjustable pushrods in and out without pulling the lifter covers and rockers???
OP, my guess is the throttle body is the impedance to getting the exhaust push rods in. Remove the lifter(s) from the bore, put the push rod down in the lifter bore first, then put it up in the rocker hole (making sure the O ring up top is good), slide on the entire push rod tube, collapse it, put the lifter/tappet cover over the push rod and then tilt all that away and re-insert the lifter in the same hole/direction as it was before. Then bolt everything down, I use ARP 12 point bolts because they're easier to get to than an Allen.
You don't have to do that with a carbed bike. As far as lifters go, S&S Standards are imported from Mexico (and cost way too much for an imported lifter), the Premiums come from a company in Troy, Michigan.
Last edited by Campy Roadie; May 11, 2019 at 10:51 AM.
Grand HDF Member
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 3,599
Likes: 5,175
From: SWMO
I'd guess "sells" or "offers" would be more fitting in that phrase. Not picking fly **** out of the pepper hatt, just sad commentary on products being brought in and not manufactured here anymore.
Thread Starter
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Intermediate
Joined: Apr 2019
Posts: 31
Likes: 3
From: Indianapolis
I just said screw it and went and bought SE lifters and pushrods.
Club Member
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 1,677
Likes: 434
I have Fuel Moto adjustable pushrods in one bike and Zippers adjustable pushrods in the other. What I found to be the easiest way to adjust them for me is as follows if I have the top end opened up.
-Pick a cylinder and make sure both intake and exhaust are on there base circles.
-Drop the pushrods in from from the top fully collapsed and no pushrod tubes installed.
-Bolt down the rocker support plate with its 4 bolts and torque to spec.
-Adjust the pushrods. It’s much easier without the pushrod tubes in the way.
-Let the lifters bleed down.
-Unbolt the rocker support plate following the factory service manual.
-Pull out the adjusted pushrods, install the pushrod tubes and reinstall the pushrods and rocker support plate following the factory service manual.
-Repeat for second cylinder.
-Pick a cylinder and make sure both intake and exhaust are on there base circles.
-Drop the pushrods in from from the top fully collapsed and no pushrod tubes installed.
-Bolt down the rocker support plate with its 4 bolts and torque to spec.
-Adjust the pushrods. It’s much easier without the pushrod tubes in the way.
-Let the lifters bleed down.
-Unbolt the rocker support plate following the factory service manual.
-Pull out the adjusted pushrods, install the pushrod tubes and reinstall the pushrods and rocker support plate following the factory service manual.
-Repeat for second cylinder.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 14,075
Likes: 11,096
From: San Diego, CA
I've read very few complaints about S&S lifters, but I don't use them.....
I use Johnson Hylift from WFO Larry.... I believe they are a great lifter and can get a set of 4 for around $100.....
http://www.larrysmotorcyclemachine.com/lifters.html
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Thread Starter
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Intermediate
Joined: Apr 2019
Posts: 31
Likes: 3
From: Indianapolis
I have not removed the cam cover yet, I wanted to remove the rocker covers just to check everything. Plus I think the adjustable pushrods are still easier to remove through rocker then to try to take the lifter cover off. I have never been able to get the pushrods back in that way.
Curious why ask if I remove the cam cover? Should I?
Curious why ask if I remove the cam cover? Should I?
I pulled the cam cover and everything looks fine. No burns or scoring on the cams or lifter rollers. Tried to see if the rod was bent but its hard to tell.
