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2017 ultra limited low 1.5 ohms across the stator

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Old May 12, 2019 | 08:01 PM
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Default 2017 ultra limited low 1.5 ohms across the stator

Anyone know what the spec is while ohming between the 3 outputs..and where to find a stator if it's bad....my meter set at 20 ..I measure1.5 ohms.. on my 2017 ultra limited low flhtkl
New regulator is on the way from 'new castle' but trying not to foul things up..

I also cant seem to nail down the best way to search forums here...thanks for helping me out
 
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Old May 16, 2019 | 10:34 PM
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Oops, I copied the wrong test procedure.... gotta see if I have the newer stator test procedure...
 

Last edited by hattitude; May 16, 2019 at 10:36 PM.
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Old May 17, 2019 | 09:15 AM
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I found the stator test on the Cycle Electric web page. You should have a 3 phase system, with 3 wires from the stator, so I highlighted that portion of the voltage test.

From Cycle Electric Inc:

"Stators are very simple and their problems fall into two categories: shorts and opens.

A short circuit occurs when one of the wires in the windings or the lead wire make an electrical connection some place they should not. Shorts can be from winding to winding or from winding to ground. An open circuit occurs if a wire breaks.

Winding to winding shorts or opens will cause low stator voltage.

Rotor problems are relatively rare on stock motors. Motors with performance modification that tend to run at a higher RPM range see more rotor problems. These problems can include a striped spline, broken magnets and even a broken rotor shell. All these problems will result in low stator voltage



Testing AC stator voltage

The object of this test is to see if the stator can produce proper AC voltage per 1000 RPM.
For example a 32-amp stator should put out 18 volts AC (VAC) per each 1000-RPM. At 2000 it should be 36 VAC (18x2). At 3000 RPM it should be 54 VAC (18 X 3).
Each system has a certain voltage it should produce per 1000 RPM.

The following is a list of the most common systems.
22 amp single phase = 24 VAC @ 1000 rpm
32 amp single phase = 18 VAC @ 1000 rpm
38 amp single phase = 18 VAC @ 1000 rpm
48 amp single phase = 24 VAC @ 1000 rpm
36 amp three phase = 16 VAC @ 1000 rpm
50 amp three phase 18 VAC @ 1000 rpm

Set your meter to read AC volts. Unplug the stator from the regulator. Start the motor. On a single-phase system, connect one lead from the meter to each pin on the stator plug. Hold the motor at a steady RPM and read the tachometer and the voltmeter.

On a three-phase system there are three separate windings hooked end to end. You need to test the voltage on each set of windings. The plug has three pins. First take a voltage reading between pin one and pin two. Then pin one and pin three. And finally pin two and pin three. This will test all three windings. All three should read the same voltage at the same RPM.

A stator that is shorted to ground may still produce full AC voltage from pin to pin. The problem with this is the rectifier changes the AC current to DC current and then uses the ground as one leg of the DC. When the stator shorts to ground the AC and DC get mixed together.

Testing for shorts to ground

The best way to test for shorts to ground is with a 12-volt test light. Sometimes an ohms meter will not pick up a short to ground. The light test is better.

Using a standard automotive test light, connect the ground clip to a good ground. Test the light by touching the probe to something positive such as the positive battery terminal. The light should light indicating you have a good ground. Now you are ready to start the test.

Unplug the regulator from the stator and start the motor. Probe each stator pin with the test light one at a time. If the bulb lights when connected between any of the stator plug pins and ground the stator is shorted and needs to be replaced.


If you get proper AC voltage and the stator is not grounded (no light) the stator and rotor are good. At this point you can assume the problem is either a bad connection between the regulator and the battery or the regulator is bad."



I've never used a test light to check for a shorted stator, I've always used this method after doing the AC Output check:

Stator Resistance Check:
Switch your multi meter to Ohm x 1 scale.
Probe each stator wires with meter leads and check resistance on meter.
Resistance should be in the range of 0.1-0.5 Ohms. (Reading will vary depending on system, check service manual for specification)

Generic Specs:
22 amp system produces about 0.2 to 0.4 ohms
32 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
45 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms


Stator IB test or Ground Check:
Switch your multi meter to Ohm x 1 scale.
Probe each stator wire with your positive lead on multi meter and the negative to ground.
There should be no continuity to ground on any stator wire.
If there is continuity to ground your stator is shorted to ground.

 

Last edited by hattitude; May 17, 2019 at 09:31 AM.
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Old May 17, 2019 | 10:31 AM
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Thanks for the info....I'm getting 21volts AC at idle
Just cant figure why the stator ohms out at 1.5 with my meter set at 200 which is the lowest setting

Volt meter on the bike is showing almost 16 the fp3 says 14.7
 
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Old May 17, 2019 | 03:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Fitterwelder
Thanks for the info....I'm getting 21volts AC at idle
Just cant figure why the stator ohms out at 1.5 with my meter set at 200 which is the lowest setting

Volt meter on the bike is showing almost 16 the fp3 says 14.7
The volt meter on HD bikes are notoriously inaccurate... when getting suspicious readings from a bike mounted volt meter, the first test is to check voltage at the battery terminals, with a good volt meter, while the engine is running... have you done that yet?

If you idle @ 1K rpm or less, then you are putting out higher than normal AC per the general rule (50 amp three phase 18 VAC @ 1000 rpm). You might want to redo that test and check the voltage at 1k, 2K and 3K

Your stator ohms out at 3X the recommended amount. I read one online tutorial that said if the stator ohms out over .5 replace it. I forget the source of that info.

In any case, assuming you are performing the tests correctly, it appears you may have an issue with the stator. I would want to check the service manual for your specific year/model to see what the exact specs are (AC output & Ohms) before replacing it.


Make sure to post up what the final remedy is...
 

Last edited by hattitude; May 17, 2019 at 06:55 PM.
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Old May 17, 2019 | 04:33 PM
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You can't accurately measure 0.5 to 1.5 ohms on a 200 ohm scale ohm meter. Further, depending on the ohm meter in question, you may be highly inaccurate to begin with. Generally speaking, low ohms on a stator winding are OK. There really is no failure mode that would elevate the stator winding from 0.5 ohms to 1.5 ohms, to be seen as a problem. Normally they are either low ohms or infinite ohms. If all 3 measurements are close to each other, then you are fine. Also measure each leg to ground and make sure you have no continuity to ground.

If you are measuring 21VAC at idle phase to phase, then my bet is that your stator is fine. The main thing is if all 3 legs have the same AC output. If one phase is measuring significantly less, or no AC voltage, then you have a stator problem. If you rev the bike up, what is the battery voltage then? It shouldn't get much above 15VDC.

You haven't indicated if you were experiencing a problem, or what that problem might have been. To me it sounds like your stator is fine at least. It is rare for all 3 windings of the stator to all fail at the same time, and in the same way.
 
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Old May 17, 2019 | 07:10 PM
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Originally Posted by harkon
You can't accurately measure 0.5 to 1.5 ohms on a 200 ohm scale ohm meter. Further, depending on the ohm meter in question, you may be highly inaccurate to begin with. Generally speaking, low ohms on a stator winding are OK. There really is no failure mode that would elevate the stator winding from 0.5 ohms to 1.5 ohms, to be seen as a problem. Normally they are either low ohms or infinite ohms. If all 3 measurements are close to each other, then you are fine. Also measure each leg to ground and make sure you have no continuity to ground.

If you are measuring 21VAC at idle phase to phase, then my bet is that your stator is fine. The main thing is if all 3 legs have the same AC output. If one phase is measuring significantly less, or no AC voltage, then you have a stator problem. If you rev the bike up, what is the battery voltage then? It shouldn't get much above 15VDC.

You haven't indicated if you were experiencing a problem, or what that problem might have been. To me it sounds like your stator is fine at least. It is rare for all 3 windings of the stator to all fail at the same time, and in the same way.
Even though I'm not the OP, I appreciate your input. I am no expert and learn from these threads too. That's why I save tutorials from web sites, to help me through these checks. I share them with others, when they don't get a response to a question...

I've tested 4 stators. Three tested OK by the test protocols I shared, while one had a short to ground, and smelled pretty bad when I opened the primary...

So for my own clarification, if there is no stator failure indicated by stator windings from .5 to 1.5 ohms, why do they have you test for the actual result? Most test procedures I found, show an Ohms scale per system output. Why wouldn't they just say as long as it doesn't read infinite it's OK?

Again, not challenging your statement, just trying to get my head around this...
 

Last edited by hattitude; May 17, 2019 at 07:12 PM.
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