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Procedures for testing Stator

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Old Aug 27, 2011 | 06:41 AM
  #1  
leepetersusn's Avatar
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Default Procedures for testing Stator

I've been searching this site and haven't been able to find the procedures for testing the Stator. I think it may be the culprit to my problem, but want to know for sure before I start ordering parts. I have the service manual, but it only vaguely describes the procedures for replacing it, but not testing it.

Thanks.
 
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Old Aug 27, 2011 | 07:00 AM
  #2  
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Not sure this info is in a service manual, but it is in the 'Electrical Diagnostics Manual".

Stator Check
1. Turn ignition switch OFF.
2. See Figure 1-17. Connect an ohmmeter.
a. Disconnect voltage regulator connector from alternator
stator wiring.
b. Insert one ohmmeter lead into a stator connector
socket.
c. Attach the other lead to a suitable ground.
3. Test for continuity with ohmmeter set to the ohms scale.
a. A good stator will show no continuity (open circuit)
between any stator sockets and ground.
b. Any other reading indicates a grounded stator which
must be replaced.
4. See Figure 1-18. Check resistance across stator sockets
1-2, 2-3 and 3-1.
5. Test for resistance with ohmmeter set on the ohms scale.
a. Resistance across all the stator sockets should be
0.1-0.2 ohms.
b. If the resistance is higher, the stator is damaged and
must be replaced.
c. If resistance is lower, this could indicate an internal
short between the windings.

AC Output Check
1. See Figure 1-19. Test AC output.
a. Disconnect voltage regulator connector from alternator
stator wiring.
b. Connect an AC voltmeter across stator connector
sockets 1-2.
c. Run the engine at 2000 RPM. The AC output should
be 32-46 volts AC (approximately 16-23 per 1000
RPM).
d. Repeat test across stator sockets 2-3 and 3-1.
2. Compare test results to specifications.
a. If the output is below specifications, charging problem
could be a faulty rotor or stator.
b. If output is within specification, charging problem
might be faulty regulator. Replace as required.
3. Check the output again as previously described under
Current and Voltage Output Test
 
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Old Aug 27, 2011 | 02:08 PM
  #3  
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Thanks for the response. I'll give this a shot tomorrow and see how it pans out.
 
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Old Aug 6, 2018 | 10:34 AM
  #4  
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Originally Posted by SC-Longhair
Not sure this info is in a service manual, but it is in the 'Electrical Diagnostics Manual".

Stator Check
1. Turn ignition switch OFF.
2. See Figure 1-17. Connect an ohmmeter.
a. Disconnect voltage regulator connector from alternator
stator wiring.
b. Insert one ohmmeter lead into a stator connector
socket.
c. Attach the other lead to a suitable ground.
3. Test for continuity with ohmmeter set to the ohms scale.
a. A good stator will show no continuity (open circuit)
between any stator sockets and ground.
b. Any other reading indicates a grounded stator which
must be replaced.
4. See Figure 1-18. Check resistance across stator sockets
1-2, 2-3 and 3-1.
5. Test for resistance with ohmmeter set on the ohms scale.
a. Resistance across all the stator sockets should be
0.1-0.2 ohms.
b. If the resistance is higher, the stator is damaged and
must be replaced.
c. If resistance is lower, this could indicate an internal
short between the windings.

AC Output Check
1. See Figure 1-19. Test AC output.
a. Disconnect voltage regulator connector from alternator
stator wiring.
b. Connect an AC voltmeter across stator connector
sockets 1-2.
c. Run the engine at 2000 RPM. The AC output should
be 32-46 volts AC (approximately 16-23 per 1000
RPM).
d. Repeat test across stator sockets 2-3 and 3-1.
2. Compare test results to specifications.
a. If the output is below specifications, charging problem
could be a faulty rotor or stator.
b. If output is within specification, charging problem
might be faulty regulator. Replace as required.
3. Check the output again as previously described under
Current and Voltage Output Test
So I did this test and my number were between 16-21 at 1,000 RPM

Went up to 2,000 and had 40-43. Seems good.

All 3 pin swaps I seem to pull the correct amount of voltage but it seemed to jump around as if I didn’t have a good connect. Sometimes dropped to zero and then when I tried to adjust leads they would go back to where they should be.
 
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Old Aug 6, 2018 | 11:06 AM
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Originally Posted by toryhardin92


So I did this test and my number were between 16-21 at 1,000 RPM

Went up to 2,000 and had 40-43. Seems good.

All 3 pin swaps I seem to pull the correct amount of voltage but it seemed to jump around as if I didn’t have a good connect. Sometimes dropped to zero and then when I tried to adjust leads they would go back to where they should be.
also, yesterday I passed 2/3 test. I decided to check output at 2,000 and was good. Decided to do the remaining to test just to make sure and my number were over the place with resistance.
 
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Old Jul 29, 2020 | 07:37 AM
  #6  
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make sure the regulator body is properly grounded
 
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Old Jul 29, 2020 | 07:55 AM
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"all over the place with resistance" Can you kill the autoranging feature of your meter? That probably will stabilize the reading provided you have good contact.
 
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Old Jul 29, 2020 | 11:52 AM
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What bike are people offering suggestions for?
 
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