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Battery & Check Engine Light

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Old May 21, 2019 | 10:26 AM
  #1  
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Default Battery & Check Engine Light

Hello. I have a 2013 Road King.
I've read alot of posts regarding the charging system.
Here's the problem I;m seeing:
Check Engine light and battery light randomly go on and off while riding.
Sometimes the bike won't start (rapid clicking).

Diagnosis Codes Displayed:
P0562
P0563
P1511
P2101
Pn 32999-11

Monitored Battery Results:
Pulled battery out of bike;
11.43v yesterday at 6:00pm.
Charged overnight.
13.71v at 5:35 Wednesday morning.
12.86v at 7:00am Wednesday morning.
12.80v at 4:38pm Wednesday
Start: voltage drops to 10.30 & idles at 14.20v
Engine off: 12.77v 6:53am battery in bike overnight (not on charger)
12.71v 3:00pm Thursday: battery in bike (not running)

ALTERNATOR IS GOOD because when the engine is idling the volts are at 14.2?

Continuity between voltage regulator pins behind rectifier.
No continuity between voltage regulator pins and ground.

I'm guessing it's the voltage regulator.
Before I buy one, I would like to hear others' diagnosis.
Thank you,
RUdy
 
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Old May 21, 2019 | 11:01 AM
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Load test the battery. Nothing wrong with 14.2 at idle.
 
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Old May 21, 2019 | 12:30 PM
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Thanks!, chopper_man !




When I start her up, the voltage drops to 10.3 volts then goes up to 14.2v.
 

Last edited by Rudy046; May 21, 2019 at 12:52 PM.
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Old May 21, 2019 | 02:09 PM
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Diagnosis Codes Displayed:
P0562 Battery/ECM Voltage low
P0563 Battery/ECM Voltage High
P1511 Power Management Mode aka Limp mode
P2101 EFI Motor circuit range performance (actuation error)

When your check engine and battery light come on does the bike still run good? Does the Voltage fluctuate?
 
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Old May 21, 2019 | 06:12 PM
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I'd bet on it being a bad voltage regulator.
Mine went bad at about 25,000+/- miles.
 
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Old May 21, 2019 | 07:21 PM
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When they go bad sometimes, they go intermittent.. so you'll lose the 14.2V (which is correct when bike is running) and you're then on battery voltage, no charge. If the battery light is going on and off it is either a bad connection or a bad intermittent voltage regulator. Check the connectors from stator to VR and clean.. but if it's not a connection, get a new VR. I would suggest a Cycle Electric all USA made and beefy compared to the HD regulators.
 
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Old May 22, 2019 | 11:42 AM
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If you go with HD, the chrome one was 50 bucks cheaper than the black one. Ask me how I know. If you should check the voltage at the alternator it will be 3 phase AC.
 
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Old May 22, 2019 | 12:28 PM
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Thanks for in info 69cj! I'm not a chrome-head, but if it's $50 cheaper, I'm in.
(BTW: Sorry you sold your Trident. I had a '72 Trident: it was the most fun out of all the bikes I've owned; when it started)
 
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Old May 22, 2019 | 01:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Rudy046
Thanks for in info 69cj! I'm not a chrome-head, but if it's $50 cheaper, I'm in.
(BTW: Sorry you sold your Trident. I had a '72 Trident: it was the most fun out of all the bikes I've owned; when it started)
Test your regulator before you replace to make sure, plenty of videos on it, not to sway you away from the 50 dollars savings, but I went through 2 before I wised up and replaced it with one from cycle elelctric, worth it in the long run.

http://cycleelectricinc.com/

rk classic.
 
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Old May 27, 2019 | 04:47 PM
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Thanks, Everyone.
I just put in a voltage regulator from CycleElectric. Wow! what a difference between their product and the factory Harley regulator. It is SOLD with a well thought out design (aluminium backing). Those boys have got brains! CycleElectric designed their regulator to hang from the frame crossmember so it is not affected by the heat emanating from the oil cooler. Had a chance to go for a 15 mile ride to get gas and open her up on the highway: no battery or check engine light yet and she started right up at the gas station!

Thank you, fellas for all your help, guidance, and advice! Should our paths ever cross, I'd be happy to by you a beer!
 
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