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So I recently purchased chrome fork sliders and rebuilt my forks On a 2007 Road King classic.when putting them back together I of course torqued everything to specs but afterwords realized that my torque wrench was reading wrong and I snapped off the bolt and in the case. Anyway Im wondering If instead of taking the complete fork out of my 2007 road king can I just pull the damper bolt and replace it or do I have to completely take out the spring to release pressure? When I say damper bowl I mean the one with the copper crush ring at the bottom of the fork. Im afraid I over tightened them and they are going to end up snapping . Please let me know
I would try to remove the bolt with the internals still in there first. The spring pressure will actually help you since it will help keep the damper rod from spinning with the bolt youre trying to get out. I dont know the setup on the older touring models but Im guessing since you asked, you can fill the forks from the top without removing them?
Last edited by Cygnusx51; Jul 9, 2019 at 01:08 PM.
I highly doubt you had enough leverage to tighten that bolt so tight that it is going to break off. I would leave it alone unless it starts leaking. However your post states that you already snapped it off and that your afraid it will snap off. If its already snapped off you have to fix it.
No I snapped a bolt off in my crank case thats how I found out the torque wrench was not working properly. My question was I still have the bike tore down just want to make sure something wasnt going to fly apart if I left the forks on there and just took the bolt out And replaced it. Yes I can fill the forks from the top without removing them
Yes you can pull the dampner bolt without pulling the springs. I would drop the fork tube and turn it over then you won't lose any oil or make a mess.
If you snapped off the bolt head then you seriously over-torqued it and the odds are that you will not get the rest of it out easily, especially if you used LocTite. If the bolt head is broken off, then there is nothing holding the crush washer in place so there is no seal and the oil will probably leak. Also, the cartridge no longer mechanically secured to the lower slider. I do not know if this matters or not, but my aviation tunnel vision could not deal with this situation and I would have to pull the tube back apart and remove the remainder of the bolt, make sure nothing got cracked or otherwise damaged with the over-torque stress, and reassemble it with a new replacement bolt and copper crush washer. Take you maybe two hours if the bolt is a being **** to get out.
Thats my problem I hate to move forward knowing that I possibly over tightened it. Most likely I did not but its my OCD playing hell on me. I was also replacing the side cam chest cover thats where I Broke the bolt off and realized the torque wrench was not working luckily I did not crack the case. I just wanted to make sure that I could pull that bolt totally out Without I think flying apart from spring pressure. I appreciate your help looks like I got a pull that darn fender once again
I appreciate your guys help. Just an update I was able to take the front wheel off pulled the bolts out let the fluid drain put the new bolts in and torqued them to spec filled up forks from the top without removing them once again. And yes I did way over tighten those bolts they were stretched Almost a 1/4...thanks guys
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