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"If you blip the throttle to rpm match with EACH down shift, that slightly increases fuel consumption likely cancelling out what you might save on brakes."
Just dont do a mechanical over rev. Do the downshift into the next lower gear only, to ensure you keep the refs down. O;ce you get good at it you can do multiple gear downshifts...if the revs are low enough.
i use engine breaking all the time, and always have on manual transmission vehicles...and even on my car with paddle shifters.
When street racing my Datsun 240z years ago, I did an accidental mechanical over rev...and it survived. But, I dont advocate doing that. Not all motors can take that,
Edit: Oh yeah. Its best to slip the clutch out after down shifting. Dont just down shift and let the clutch fly. That can temporary key slide the rear tire, and/or throw a valve through the gas tank.
If you rev match your shift , that is non issue. If you have a slip and assist clutch that will also prevent it.
Double clutching does more to minimize wear on the synchronizers in the transmission than to save wear on the clutch RPM matching minimizes wear on the clutch but that takes lots of practice and the clutch wears each time until the skill is well established. Any time the clutch plates slip against each other they are wearing regardless if it is an up-shift or down-shift. Years ago I decided that the clutch was primarily to "go" and the brakes were primarily to stop. Brakes are far cheaper and easier to change than clutches. Planning a stop far in advance so you can COAST to a lower speed saves gas AND brakes.
Using a lower gear when going down a long hill is still recommended more to prevent brake over heating and loss of brake function. Many enjoy down-shifting for engine braking as they slow but it saves little if anything in the overall cost of operation. If you blip the throttle to rpm match with EACH down shift, that slightly increases fuel consumption likely cancelling out what you might save on brakes. Motorcycles don't have neutral between EACH gear so double clutching isn't even available. The dog that engages each gear gets slammed pretty hard when down-shifting just as it does when up-shifting adding wear to the transmission as well as the clutch. If you enjoy doing it, that is your choice, but it isn't free.
Double clutching came about many years ago, as there was no such thing as synchronized transmissions. You literally couldn't shift the transmission unless you did that ( when using the clutch) As life long driver of trucks,it is far easier to rev match and shift without the clutch altogether than play with the clutch all day. Some trucks have clutch brakes as well, but not relevant to motorcycles.
Double clutching does more to minimize wear on the synchronizers in the transmission than to save wear on the clutch RPM matching minimizes wear on the clutch but that takes lots of practice and the clutch wears each time until the skill is well established. Any time the clutch plates slip against each other they are wearing regardless if it is an up-shift or down-shift. Years ago I decided that the clutch was primarily to "go" and the brakes were primarily to stop. Brakes are far cheaper and easier to change than clutches. Planning a stop far in advance so you can COAST to a lower speed saves gas AND brakes.
Using a lower gear when going down a long hill is still recommended more to prevent brake over heating and loss of brake function. Many enjoy down-shifting for engine braking as they slow but it saves little if anything in the overall cost of operation. If you blip the throttle to rpm match with EACH down shift, that slightly increases fuel consumption likely cancelling out what you might save on brakes. Motorcycles don't have neutral between EACH gear so double clutching isn't even available. The dog that engages each gear gets slammed pretty hard when down-shifting just as it does when up-shifting adding wear to the transmission as well as the clutch. If you enjoy doing it, that is your choice, but it isn't free.
outside the motorcycle world here but I believe in my mustang it actually helps save gas. I forget the reasoning and when i search google everything pulls up the "new" auto rev match on the 19 and up stangs. there's some logic built in to the computer though that above a certain RPM and when coasting that the computer is limiting fuel to the engine. so any minimal gas usage i burn from blipping from say 2200 RPM to 2700 RMP is offset by the computer cutting fuel
as for motorcycles, and even in my stang, I don't like coasting out of gear or in wrong gear. If you coast and are in neutral it's that much longer to re engage and get back in to gear if you are needing quick acceleration. And even longer/worse if you are in a high gear and coasting. If you're in 6th and need to punch it while the bike is at 30 MPH....good luck. If you've downshifted and are in 3rd or to me preferably even 2nd, then you have instant power if you need to make an evasive maneuver.
I've been driving a manual exclusively for the last 5 years with my car and then harley's for 3 years i guess. far from an expert or anything but that's my take on it. i downshift at least 90% of the time and blip it. only times i absolutely dont is if I'm by a cop while slowing down or maybe sometimes i'll downshift 2 gears and hold the clutch in just a bit longer but that's not at all often
Double clutching came about many years ago, as there was no such thing as synchronized transmissions. You literally couldn't shift the transmission unless you did that ( when using the clutch) As life long driver of trucks,it is far easier to rev match and shift without the clutch altogether than play with the clutch all day. Some trucks have clutch brakes as well, but not relevant to motorcycles.
My younger son did all of that when he was driving semis. The most primitive manual transmission I have handled had no synchro into 1st gear. Hadn't expected anyone going back as far as you do to be in here.
Quote: "
as for motorcycles, and even in my stang, I don't like coasting out of gear or in wrong gear. If you coast and are in neutral it's that much longer to re engage and get back in to gear if you are needing quick acceleration. And even longer/worse if you are in a high gear and coasting. If you're in 6th and need to punch it while the bike is at 30 MPH....good luck. If you've downshifted and are in 3rd or to me preferably even 2nd, then you have instant power if you need to make an evasive maneuver."
Never meant to suggest coasting out of gear, just closing the throttle far enough back from the stop so the engine can slow you down for awhile before applying the brakes to complete the stop. In 60+ years of driving I have never had to use a sudden burst of power to avoid an accident while slowing for a stop. I'm not saying the situation is impossible, it just has never happened to me. Rationalize your driving technique as you like.
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