2010 Street glide Clutch replacement.
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Stage III
Joined: Aug 2019
Posts: 3
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From: AB
2010 Street glide Clutch replacement.
Hey guys, hoping I can make sense of this weird clutch issue I am having. I've got the '10 Street glide and I noticed a slight pop, and the bike started running rough so I investigated my primary and secondary. Found that my clutch hub had broken on the backside, where the sleeve attatched.
I bought a new hub and clutch assembly meaning plates and disks. I assembled the clutch in the correct order with the two rings, second bevel ring facing out towards me as I assembled friction disk to clutch plate alternatively leaving a friction disk on the outside. The inner hub nut was torqued to 80 ft/ibs left hand thread and the primary torqued to 180 ft/ibs right-hand thread. Chain tensioner installed.
I have loosened my clutch cable fully, I've made sure the ball ramp is in working condition and the pressure plate is installed with the OUT lettering towards me, snap ring in place and the adjustment nut backed way off. The clutch cable is fully slacked making sure the ball ramp is pushed all the way back. I have torqued the flex plate 10mm bolts to 100 in/ibs, and I thread the clutch adjustment screw clockwise until I barely feel restriction (seated) I then back off my adjustment bolt 3/4 of a turn. I lock that down. I replace the cover on primary and adjust the clutch cable to a rough 1/8" and pull the cable a few times, I thin adjust the cable to about 1/16" play in the cable.
The clutch cable feels good when I pull it. Bike fires up in neutral and every single time I shift into first fear the bike jumps ahead and stalls completely. I have no idea what has gone amiss because I've followed all the correct steps "I believe".
Does anyone have experience with this issue? Thank you very much for your time.
I bought a new hub and clutch assembly meaning plates and disks. I assembled the clutch in the correct order with the two rings, second bevel ring facing out towards me as I assembled friction disk to clutch plate alternatively leaving a friction disk on the outside. The inner hub nut was torqued to 80 ft/ibs left hand thread and the primary torqued to 180 ft/ibs right-hand thread. Chain tensioner installed.
I have loosened my clutch cable fully, I've made sure the ball ramp is in working condition and the pressure plate is installed with the OUT lettering towards me, snap ring in place and the adjustment nut backed way off. The clutch cable is fully slacked making sure the ball ramp is pushed all the way back. I have torqued the flex plate 10mm bolts to 100 in/ibs, and I thread the clutch adjustment screw clockwise until I barely feel restriction (seated) I then back off my adjustment bolt 3/4 of a turn. I lock that down. I replace the cover on primary and adjust the clutch cable to a rough 1/8" and pull the cable a few times, I thin adjust the cable to about 1/16" play in the cable.
The clutch cable feels good when I pull it. Bike fires up in neutral and every single time I shift into first fear the bike jumps ahead and stalls completely. I have no idea what has gone amiss because I've followed all the correct steps "I believe".
Does anyone have experience with this issue? Thank you very much for your time.
Road Master
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 1,049
Likes: 264
From: Fresno Ca
I dont know what you did wrong. But did you work the clutch lever while the cover or derby was off and look to see if the clutch was moving? Try taking the derby cover off and you should definitely see the adjuster moving an obvious distance. If not there is something wrong somewhere. I would start with doing the clutch adjustment again and watching to see it moving before putting the derby cover back on.
Thread Starter
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Stage III
Joined: Aug 2019
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
From: AB
I dont know what you did wrong. But did you work the clutch lever while the cover or derby was off and look to see if the clutch was moving? Try taking the derby cover off and you should definitely see the adjuster moving an obvious distance. If not there is something wrong somewhere. I would start with doing the clutch adjustment again and watching to see it moving before putting the derby cover back on.
Hey there, thanks for the response, yes the clutch will move outwards away from the clutch pack when I have functioned the clutch lever. It feels like it might not be moving far enough, but when I function tested the ball ramp, it seems to move the same amount of distance as the clutch right now. Yet for some reason, it will not allow the clutch to disengage when I shift into first gear.
Thread Starter
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Stage III
Joined: Aug 2019
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
From: AB
I appreciate your input, but yeah. Problem solved.
Lol no, apparently the damper seat and damper spring are removed when you upgrade to a performance clutch. She's hooking u awesome now. Thanks for the help guys.
Lol no, apparently the damper seat and damper spring are removed when you upgrade to a performance clutch. She's hooking u awesome now. Thanks for the help guys.
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