Rear exhaust frustration
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Cruiser
Joined: Dec 2017
Posts: 124
Likes: 13
From: Arnold, Penna
Rear exhaust frustration
I have a 2006 Ultra with a California Sidecar trike kit installed. I recently changed the clutch and had to remove the rear header to get the primary case off. Everything went smoothly until I tried to reinstall the header. I have tried everything to get this header to seal. I have tried installing the header pipe without the tail pipe attached and with the tailpipe installed loosely. The header where it goes into the head is squared off, not tapered and I have tried OEM tapered gasket and SE flat gaskets but neither seems to make a difference and I end up with a significant leak where the header pipe goes into the head. Does anyone have a suggestion?
Banned
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 7,406
Likes: 834
From: Straight Jacket Memories and Sedative Highs
I use standard exhaust gaskets, that are tapered. I don't understand idea behind SE. But probably is one. I use 1/4 drive ratchets to get to the header bolts. I haven't pulled exhaust in awhile. I probably just follow the manual and do it pieces. My 2-1 I think I take off as whole, but cross over I think in pieces. I also so red rtv in joints.
2-1 is nice, less stuff in the way. I got one of each.
2-1 is nice, less stuff in the way. I got one of each.
Banned
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 7,406
Likes: 834
From: Straight Jacket Memories and Sedative Highs
That is for a new frame bike. Guy should have a manual anyways. I am not one to sing praise for Harley but they write the best manual. I have a manual for everything I own.
Road Warrior
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 1,422
Likes: 278
From: USA
Doesn't matter what style of frame it is, it's about following the proper sequence of torquing the flange nuts to seal the exhaust gaskets. Especially when he is having problems.
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Tourer
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 419
Likes: 60
From: Central IL
Tightening sequence from the 2006 service manual-
● Using a long 1/2 inch swivel socket, tighten the top
nut of the front cylinder head exhaust flange to 9-18
in-lbs (1-2 Nm). Tighten the bottom nut to 100-120
in-lbs (11.3-13.6 Nm). Final tighten the top nut to
100-120 in-lbs (11.3-13.6 Nm).
● Tighten the bottom nut of the rear cylinder head
exhaust flange to 9-18 in-lbs (1-2 Nm). Tighten the
top nut to 100-120 in-lbs (11.3-13.6 Nm). Final
tighten the bottom nut to 100-120 in-lbs (11.3-13.6
Nm).
● Tighten the exhaust bracket clamp bolt to 60-96 inlbs
(6.8-10.8 Nm).
● Snug two screws (with lockwashers) holding the
right side muffler to the lower saddlebag support
rail. Alternately tighten screws to 96-144 in-lbs
(10.8-16.3 Nm).
● Snug two screws (with lockwashers) holding the left
side muffler to the lower saddlebag support rail.
Alternately tighten screws to 96-144 in-lbs (10.8-
16.3 Nm).
● Verify that all exhaust pipes are in alignment and do
not contact the motorcycle frame or mounted components.
● Tighten the TORCA clamp (special) between the
rear header pipe and crossover pipe to 45-60 ft-lbs
(61-81 Nm).
● Tighten Keps nut securing bracket tab to exhaust
support bracket.
● Using a long 1/2 inch swivel socket, tighten the top
nut of the front cylinder head exhaust flange to 9-18
in-lbs (1-2 Nm). Tighten the bottom nut to 100-120
in-lbs (11.3-13.6 Nm). Final tighten the top nut to
100-120 in-lbs (11.3-13.6 Nm).
● Tighten the bottom nut of the rear cylinder head
exhaust flange to 9-18 in-lbs (1-2 Nm). Tighten the
top nut to 100-120 in-lbs (11.3-13.6 Nm). Final
tighten the bottom nut to 100-120 in-lbs (11.3-13.6
Nm).
● Tighten the exhaust bracket clamp bolt to 60-96 inlbs
(6.8-10.8 Nm).
● Snug two screws (with lockwashers) holding the
right side muffler to the lower saddlebag support
rail. Alternately tighten screws to 96-144 in-lbs
(10.8-16.3 Nm).
● Snug two screws (with lockwashers) holding the left
side muffler to the lower saddlebag support rail.
Alternately tighten screws to 96-144 in-lbs (10.8-
16.3 Nm).
● Verify that all exhaust pipes are in alignment and do
not contact the motorcycle frame or mounted components.
● Tighten the TORCA clamp (special) between the
rear header pipe and crossover pipe to 45-60 ft-lbs
(61-81 Nm).
● Tighten Keps nut securing bracket tab to exhaust
support bracket.
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Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 14,156
Likes: 11,245
From: San Diego, CA
The gasket you use should be based on the end of the header that fits into the exhaust port...
Here is a flat head pipe flange that should use a flat gasket (like SE gaskets):
Here is a tapered head pipe flange that should use an OEM tapered type gasket:
Then as mentioned, get the head pipe set in both exhaust ports, and follow the torque sequence.....
Sometimes the spring clips that hold the exhaust flange in place will "bend", and reduce the ability of the flange to "squish" the exhaust gasket well. If yours look bent/warped, try a couple new spring clips..... In really bad cases, I've heard of people using two exhaust flange spring clips to hold the exhaust flange in place. It will allow for a little more squish on the exhaust gasket....
I would try the proper gasket, proper placement, and proper torque sequence first.... before doubling up the flange clips...
Good luck..
Here is a flat head pipe flange that should use a flat gasket (like SE gaskets):
Here is a tapered head pipe flange that should use an OEM tapered type gasket:
Then as mentioned, get the head pipe set in both exhaust ports, and follow the torque sequence.....
Sometimes the spring clips that hold the exhaust flange in place will "bend", and reduce the ability of the flange to "squish" the exhaust gasket well. If yours look bent/warped, try a couple new spring clips..... In really bad cases, I've heard of people using two exhaust flange spring clips to hold the exhaust flange in place. It will allow for a little more squish on the exhaust gasket....
I would try the proper gasket, proper placement, and proper torque sequence first.... before doubling up the flange clips...
Good luck..
Club Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 45,429
Likes: 2,898
From: Bedford UK
A sidecar seems to me to be the ideal candidate for a 2-into-1 system, emphasised by the problems you have bumped into. It also can't be too difficult to remove the 'chair' to make access to the engine simpler and more direct? I have a SuperTrapp Supermeg on my solo Glide, which gives excellent torque and rideability, although on a rig will be almost invisible!